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  1. #1
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    Question Best Driver for slower swing speeds?

    I have been playing golf for 3 years now. Consistently score around 110. I have been playing with a Taylor Made 300 Ti driver for a while now and want to upgrade. I typically hit it 175 yards in the air - total yards of 200-220. I went to Golfsmith. My swing speed on the irons was typically in the 70's and in the 80's for drivers with regular flex graphite shafts.

    I've hit Cleveland Launcher 460, TM R580, TM R580 XD, Titleist 983K, Adams Redline 460.

    My swing speed was highest on the Titleist (high 80's), but I was hooking bad. Adams Redline I hit straight often, but I don't have a lot of confidence in the Adams name. Most of the reviews on here people were considering Adams, Wilson, and some other knock off. Whereas with Cleveland, TM, Titleist, Callaway, and Nike reviews people considered all the top drivers.

    Do people not consider Adams because it's a "seniors" club and maybe I should because I do have a slow swing speed? Or is Adams not considered because it's quality doesn't measure up?

  2. #2
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    The particular brand of clubhead probably isn't nearly as important as getting the appropriate shaft for both your swingspeed and tempo. Judging the correct shaft by measuring swingspeed alone can work, but isn't always the entire answer. Typically, that's how you'll be pigeon-holed by the average employee of a golf shop, though.
    If you have access to a skilled clubfitter in your area, I'd seek his/her advice. The proper shaft will make far more difference than whether you play a Taylormade, Cleveland, Titleist, Callaway, or a component club.

  3. #3
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    dlp... In my opinion, you've either overthought your brand impression, or you've been led astray. Adams is an excellent, long respected brand in the industry. They mostly single-handedly changed fairway wood design with the shallow-faced upside-down head that dominated the industry for years. For that matter, the Red-line line of woods and driver are incredible. A buddy of mine has them and he blisters the ball, plus they are holding up well. You are on the right track by hitting drivers to find out what you want, but IMHO you are defeating the entire purpose of that indeavor by then looking to reviews and word of mouth to judge what you just hit straight. What others say won't make your driver worse, or others better. Buy what you hit the best.

  4. #4
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    Well said, crowe. I have an Adams GT 410 driver that blazes the ball when I hit it correctly. The stock shaft needs to be changed, but the clubhead is just as hot as the other 'big' names out there. Like crowe said, they pioneered the current fairway wood design. I play with two guys who love the adams tight lies series.

  5. #5
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    Best driver *shaft* for slow swing speeds

    Quote Originally Posted by dlp3719
    I have been playing golf for 3 years now. Consistently score around 110. I have been playing with a Taylor Made 300 Ti driver for a while now and want to upgrade. I typically hit it 175 yards in the air - total yards of 200-220. I went to Golfsmith. My swing speed on the irons was typically in the 70's and in the 80's for drivers with regular flex graphite shafts.

    I've hit Cleveland Launcher 460, TM R580, TM R580 XD, Titleist 983K, Adams Redline 460.

    My swing speed was highest on the Titleist (high 80's), but I was hooking bad. Adams Redline I hit straight often, but I don't have a lot of confidence in the Adams name. Most of the reviews on here people were considering Adams, Wilson, and some other knock off. Whereas with Cleveland, TM, Titleist, Callaway, and Nike reviews people considered all the top drivers.

    Do people not consider Adams because it's a "seniors" club and maybe I should because I do have a slow swing speed? Or is Adams not considered because it's quality doesn't measure up?
    Like a lot of contributors to this forum, I wouldn't swear that any of the usual suspects among today's most popular drivers is any longer/hotter/better than another, but boy are there differences in shafts. I recently went through a long session trying different shafts on a launch monitor and came away with a shaft that works for me and a better understanding of which shaft characteristics influence (A) the ball flight and (B) how I swing the club. Try to get with someone who can demo you on a number of different types of shafts, being sure to try different flexes, kick or bend points, shaft weights, tip firmness, and torque ratings. I found that a shaft that I usually swung slower in the trials had a much higher average ball speed, launch angle, and overall distance--because I hit the ball more squarely with it and it transferred energy better from the club to the ball. It's well known that more flexible shafts (which can have several different meanings) can produce higher ball speeds, but it's less well known that higher torque can also increase ball speed and lift for players with slower swings. And the combination of shaft characteristics easily influences how well the club feels in the backswing to you, coming down through the ball, and after impact--all of which will greatly contribute to the performance you get from that shaft.

    Take any driver head that looks good to you at setup and try a wide range of shafts with it, if possible, especially non-stock or aftermarket shafts. I think this will open your eyes.

  6. #6
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    Most people have never heard of it but I use a Taylor Made Burner 420, on my slowest swings the ball still goes as far as when i swing at one (odd ain't it) its not one of the "hot" drivers around but you can save money (got mine for $100) then get some lessons to drop ur 110 avg. the burner is very forgiving, and the ball never seems to stop

  7. #7
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    Update

    I am now convinced the head matters less than the shaft. As Adams has maxed out at 460cc with a .830 Cor and the fact that I hit it well, I think I will go with it. There are a number on ebay with Aldida NV shafts of different weights. I know I need regular flex. Probably 65 grams based on Aldida's website. What degree loft should I go for?

  8. #8
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    Using Golf monthly's driver loft chart 11* the hole article basically argues that most amateurs use drivers with too little loft. I know from experience that when i switched from 9* to 10.5* i became more accurate with no loss in distance
    PS i also play an Adams driver the GT303 and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it

  9. #9
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    Apr 2004
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    3-wood would be a good choice. At slower swing speeds, anything under 13* won't fly as far as a fairway wood.

  10. #10

    Drop the driver

    At 110, you really do not have a reliable enough swing to even think about a driver. Here are some suggestions for you.
    1. Get some lessons from a respected pro, and then practice like crazy. You can't build a worthwhile swing unless you have some consistency, and without that it really doesn't matter what driver you swing!
    2. Leave the driver at home and start concentrating on hitting the ball with 3 and 5 woods. The shorter shafts will help you groove a swing. However, if you are seriously considering getting better and will take lessons, don't even work with the woods at all. Concentrate all your effort on hitting very consistent 8 irons, 9 irons, and Pitching Wedges. When you have finally mastered these clubs, then apply the same principles you swing these short irons with in your long wood swings.
    3. If you like neither suggesting 1 nor 2, and you just absolutely have to hit driver, some of the more forgiving drivers would be Cleveland Launcher, TaylorMade 500 series, and the MacGregor Eye-O-Matic. Yes, give it a try. Its worth it. Double check with your fitter, but if you really swing that slow, try a shaft with even more flex than a regular shaft. Don't be afraid to try different shaft manufacturers as well. (But like I said up above, without a consistent swing, it doesn't matter what you play)
    Hope these suggestions help!

  11. #11
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    I'm very happy with the Cobra 427 SS with regular shaft an 10.5 degree loft

    I can get 230 yds with a 3/4 swing with better consitancy than a 4 iron.

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