Shorten your driver???

**Jay Kotes** · 02-11-2009

I have no club making / tweaking knowledge - is it nuts to take 1 - 2" off driver length to improve accuracy.

If so - what does it entail as far as the weighting aspect goes

Thanks...

**NiftyNiblick** · 02-11-2009

Originally Posted by Jay Kotes

I have no club making / tweaking knowledge - is it nuts to take 1 - 2" off driver length to improve accuracy.

If so - what does it entail as far as the weighting aspect goes

Thanks...

That's a common method of improving accuracy. It also makes the shaft play a little stiffer, so it may lower your trajectory.

The normal place to restore the weight is in the heel area directly opposite the hitting area. Lead tape will do the trick.

**SoonerBS** · 02-11-2009

Here you go:

http://forums.golfreview.com/showthread.php?t=11516

**Pky6471** · 02-12-2009

Originally Posted by Jay Kotes

I have no club making / tweaking knowledge - is it nuts to take 1 - 2" off driver length to improve accuracy.

If so - what does it entail as far as the weighting aspect goes

Thanks...

Assuming that you have a fundamentally sound golf swing , shorter shaft WILL improve consistency BUT you most likely lose the distance. I have both Tour Edge Exotics and Tour Edge Exotics XLD (newer) driver and I like them both. When I first bought the original TEE, I feel it's longer than normal , later I found out that it's 47" from end to end. I have played with it for over a year and really like it (80% on fairways), so I want to try the XLD to see it I can even play better. Found a nice one on eBay, when I received it , I felt it's short , turns out to be 45" (1" shorter than standard),,, So I played with it one round and I still hit it straight but 10-15 yds shorter than my old TEE, tơok it to Dicks Sporting Gơods and extended it to 47" and I regain my distance, and still hit them straight... Keep in mind that I am only 5'6" ... Another thing that I believe and learn is that if we hit a ball straight, no way that we can gain more than 10-15 yds with new and improved tools

**jrio** · 02-13-2009

i shorten my driver 1 1/2 inch and it has made a big difference in my driving. It works better than just shortening your grip on the club. The accuracy compensates well for the loss in distance.

I recommend you try this at a range where the clubhouse can lend you a club with a shorter shaft see how it works for you.

**Jay Kotes** · 02-13-2009

My question is if i was to take my older driver (the older cobra f speed) and take off the grip and take it down, oh say 1.5 - 2" from the top of the shaft, and the re-grip - will it be weighted correctly - Again, I know I would be giving up a bit of distance - but just wanted to play around with a shorter 460cc headed driver to improve on accuracy

Thanks...

**pingman360** · 02-13-2009

Originally Posted by Jay Kotes

will it be weighted correctly

no it will play to a lighter SW...

**dorkman53** · 02-13-2009

Shortening a driver will make it play to a lighter swingweight. If you shorten it from the tip end, it will play stiffer. If you shorten it from the butt end, it won't have much effect on stiffness.

**Pky6471** · 02-14-2009

Originally Posted by Jay Kotes

My question is if i was to take my older driver (the older cobra f speed) and take off the grip and take it down, oh say 1.5 - 2" from the top of the shaft, and the re-grip - will it be weighted correctly - Again, I know I would be giving up a bit of distance - but just wanted to play around with a shorter 460cc headed driver to improve on accuracy

Thanks...

Why don't you choke down your driver about 2" first just to see if it fits you before you cut it down

**BrianMcG** · 02-14-2009

When you cut down a shaft, as everyone has stated, it will have a much lighter swingweight, and the shaft will play stiffer. But the lie angle will change significantly and could cause you to push shots a lot.

**Jay Kotes** · 02-14-2009

Appreciate the feedback - I have choked down some and it has worked pretty decent - like i said it is the backup driver so i was just looking to experiment / now i am worrying about the angle - would i be better served to try and get a higher loft - currently 10.5

Thanks again for the knowledge....

**Myfast** · 02-14-2009

The SW will change but it won't play much stiffer when BUTT trimmed. It will however seem to play much stiffer if tip trimmed. (the tip will play stiffer)

That said, if you like the way the shaft plays butt trim it to your desired length and try it like that. Then play with lead tape to get it back up to your desired swing weight and ball flight buy adding lead tape to the club head in different areas.

IE. More lead tape on the heel side for more of a draw bias, toe for a fade bias, or trailing edge for nuetral weighting.

**SoonerBS** · 02-14-2009

This just in . . . . . . . swingweight is highly overrated . . . . . .

**Myfast** · 02-14-2009

Only to hackers or the weekend golfer that won't feel the difference.

But seriously that's why I said try it without the lead tape first, you might like it lighter after it has been butt trimmed..

**No_Idea** · 02-15-2009

Lead tape will spoil the original appearance of the club.. the proper way to increase swing weight is to put weight in the hosel. correct me if i'm wrong.

**Myfast** · 02-15-2009

You mean tip weights? That's usually used when iron heads in a set have head weights all over the place and is meant to make them a uniform weight throughout the set. Hot melt is used in woods usually which is kind of permanent unlike lead tape.

**Horseballs** · 02-16-2009

This just in, choking up on your club will also affect swingweight.

**SoonerBS** · 02-16-2009

Originally Posted by Horseballs

This just in, choking up on your club will also affect swingweight.

This also just in, not cleaning your clubs regularly will also affect swingweight.

Did I mention that swingweight is highly overrated?

**SDB1** · 02-17-2009

If your more than a 15 index you probably shouldn't be playing a driver longer than 45". That being said hasn't anyone ever heard of a three wood? I mean, an inch off your driver isn't going to correct your slice or hook. If you need accuracy off the tee, hit a three wood. The driver is for bombing the ball as far as you can and still remain in play. If you can't keep the ball in play then don't hit the driver. Simple!

**NiftyNiblick** · 02-17-2009

Originally Posted by SDB1

If your more than a 15 index you probably shouldn't be playing a driver longer than 45". That being said hasn't anyone ever heard of a three wood? I mean, an inch off your driver isn't going to correct your slice or hook. If you need accuracy off the tee, hit a three wood. The driver is for bombing the ball as far as you can and still remain in play. If you can't keep the ball in play then don't hit the driver. Simple!

Well, for one thing, the OEMs over-compensate for shaft droop in drivers so much that the typical driver's lie angle fits a five-wood shaft better than a driver shaft anyway.

For another thing, I don't hit any club stronger than 19° from the fairway. From that far away, and with that little loft to negate sidespin, the chances of hitting anything are miniscule anyway. You're not hitting from a tee. You're hitting from an imperfect turf lie. Best find a good spot from which to pitch and hit to it..

That being the case, why not optimize the 15° club for driving with a driver-size head?
Higher and further back COG is better for driving, no?

Also, a slice or hook has a known cure. Driver inaccuracy is generally spraying. It's not about a bad swing plane in general. It's about making imperfect contact standing that far from the ball and again, not having enough loft to negate unintended sidespin.

From a purely bio-mechanical standpoint, the "thriver" makes good sense.

**Kiwi Player** · 02-17-2009

Originally Posted by SDB1

If your more than a 15 index you probably shouldn't be playing a driver longer than 45". That being said hasn't anyone ever heard of a three wood? I mean, an inch off your driver isn't going to correct your slice or hook. If you need accuracy off the tee, hit a three wood. The driver is for bombing the ball as far as you can and still remain in play. If you can't keep the ball in play then don't hit the driver. Simple!

A 3 wood?

Surely you mean a Thriver?

**Pky6471** · 02-18-2009

[Originally Posted by SDB1
If your more than a 15 index you probably shouldn't be playing a driver longer than 45". That being said hasn't anyone ever heard of a three wood? I mean, an inch off your driver isn't going to correct your slice or hook. If you need accuracy off the tee, hit a three wood. The driver is for bombing the ball as far as you can and still remain in play. If you can't keep the ball in play then don't hit the driver. Simple!]

That is NOT always true, I am only 5'6" and both of my Tour Edge Exotics and TEE XLD drivers are 47" and I can hit them as straight as anyone with 45" shaft. It's what we are comfortable with, whatever works for us then be it... BTW my score range is 79-90 on a 130 course rating, most of the time from 85-90. The only reason that I could not consistently hit in the low 80s is that I could not hit a long drive (my range is 220+/-) even thought my short game is very sound ... and it's Ok for a 59 yrs old guy

**wofat** · 02-18-2009

I took 1" off my driver last year (after being properly measured and fitted). Turns out my driver was a bit too long for me. Did it make me more accurate? Not really, but now when I lose it left bigtime... sometimes I find it.

**NiftyNiblick** · 02-18-2009

Originally Posted by No_Idea

Lead tape will spoil the original appearance of the club.. the proper way to increase swing weight is to put weight in the hosel. correct me if i'm wrong.

From a performance perspective, lead tape lets you decide where to add the weight.

Down the hosel isn't a great place. Weight should be added back at the heel end of a driver opposite the hitting surface.