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  1. #1

    TM Burner/Tour Burner. Regular or Draw?

    I'm in need of a new driver this season and dont want to play an outragious amount for a new club.

    My golf game used to be a lot better than it has been the past few seasons-mainly because I havnt been playing that much. This season will be very different though I believe.
    Im not the best, usually on 18 holes i'll shoot anywhere from a 90-100


    Right now I currently use a Callaway Hawkeye VFT 11 Degree drivier, but am looking towards the Taylor Made Tour Burner/Burner, or even the Callaway FT-i Driver.


    Now to get to the point, I often slice the ball more than anything. WHen I swicth my stance/grip up, i'll fade extremely bad. What would be your advice on a Draw driver, or should I stay with a regular one? I was also of thinking dropping the degrees to 10 or 10.5 instead of 11.

    Thanks for the advice!

  2. #2
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    Dropping degrees will actually increase the amount of sidespin you are able to put on a ball. If anything you should probably increase your loft to at least 13* (more backspin=less slice). You may even want to talk to Edgy about building a thriver.
    The views expressed by The Purist do not necessarily represent the views of The Purist. Any posts by the Purist should not be relied upon for truth or accuracy, and should be viewed at your own risk.

  3. #3
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    If you are planning on playing a lot more this year, I'd try to fix the slice with the current driver, then buy one of the non-draw versions.
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  4. #4
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    I'm confused. You don't wnat to pay anoutrageous amount for a driver, but then start talking TM and Callaway?

    But if you are set on TM, the R7 460 Draw could be a good club for you to try. They are supposed to be a pretty decent club and good for slicers, and are alot less than the overpriced junk you mentioned.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not a hacker
    I'm confused. You don't wnat to pay anoutrageous amount for a driver, but then start talking TM and Callaway?

    But if you are set on TM, the R7 460 Draw could be a good club for you to try. They are supposed to be a pretty decent club and good for slicers, and are alot less than the overpriced junk you mentioned.
    The TM Burner is on special at our club already as the new models are on their way including that ridiculous R9 which I imagine will also be ridiculously overpriced.

    So I imagine earlier the TM Burner Drivers can be picked up at a reasonable price at the moment.
    I chose the road less traveled.

    Now where the f#ck am I?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Player
    The TM Burner is on special at our club already as the new models are on their way including that ridiculous R9 which I imagine will also be ridiculously overpriced.

    So I imagine earlier the TM Burner Drivers can be picked up at a reasonable price at the moment.
    A good option but if that's the case then they will be almost giving away the R7 460 Draw, and it's probably a better fit for a slicer. I've heard they are crazy long.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

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    Try first before you buy.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Purist
    Dropping degrees will actually increase the amount of sidespin you are able to put on a ball. If anything you should probably increase your loft to at least 13* (more backspin=less slice). You may even want to talk to Edgy about building a thriver.
    Are 460cc driver himoid2feeloversized+++ heads that hard to hit straight?

    A higher lofted head is going to produce more backspin in most cases, which also leads to more ballooning drives and less total distance. Also the loft stamped on a head is usually way off due to production tolerances. Go get fitted or demo something where you can see the ball flight with your own eyes before you buy.

    The guy hasnt even described his swing, set-up, posted a vid of it or listed launch #'s and people assume he needs a thriver. Work on whatever flaw that's contributing to that power fade/slice and you will be better off for it instead of buying a draw driver that might hide it every other drive.
    Last edited by Myfast; 03-15-2009 at 12:18 AM.
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  9. #9
    MacGregor MT Offset (.5deg closed face) in 11.5 or 13.5 for $79.99 at Rockbottom Golf. The Aldila DVS shaft alone runs about $180. Also comes in the non-offset version (8.5-11.5) for same price and face is 1.5deg open in the 8.5, 1deg open in the 9.5 and 10.5 and square in the 11.5. Has to be the biggest steal around! Check it out: https://exchangeweb.ewashtenaw.org/o...%2bMT%2bdriver

  10. #10
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    Go to your local hardware store and buy a decent sized bungie cord. If you are right handed, strap the cord around you chest and your right upper arm just above the elbow. This will help you keep the right elbow close to the ribs creating a flatter inside out swing. Inside out swing path with a proper release will produce a draw ball flight. After a while you'll develop enough muscle memory to eliminate the bungie cord.

  11. #11
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    I had a tour burner and the face was closed quite a bit. I had to get rid of it as my swing had dramatically improved over last season.

    I agree with others on this board, work your ass off and grooving a consistent swing, getting those arms turning over and you'll see that slice disappear and distance come. Not only will you see your drives get good, you'll see great improvement with your irons, (where 80% of your shots are made) I suggest taking a couple lessons. Lessons have turned my game around completely.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myfast
    Are 460cc driver himoid2feeloversized+++ heads that hard to hit straight?

    The guy hasnt even described his swing.
    The guy has described his swing....He Slices. If you are slicing the ball it doesn't matter how many cc's you have the ball is not going straight. If he were to decrease loft, he would increase the amount of slice spin he's putting on the ball. Try and pay attention.
    The views expressed by The Purist do not necessarily represent the views of The Purist. Any posts by the Purist should not be relied upon for truth or accuracy, and should be viewed at your own risk.

  13. #13
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    I used to use the Taylor Made R7 460, it is a great club for somebody who slices the ball. The face is so closed that I struggled to hit the ball straight, everything was left. So it should be perfect for you. It is nice and long too. I picked mine up for $120 off ebay, they are great value for money, on top of that you get the little weight kit and you can play around with that to aid your slice.

    I had a hit with the new Callaway FT IQ the other day & I honestly dont see the appeal. It wasn't any longer or any more forgiving than other drivers I have owned, including the R7, and the FT IQ retails at $800.

    I also have the Macgregor MT460 that someone mentioned above, awesome value for money but I think the shaft and head combo suits a nice smooth swing. When I wind up on it, I seem to get some inconsistency. It's not the best driver I have hit but for $140 brand new I can't complain. It is my back up driver.

    I love the Ping G10 but that is just my personal preference & in your case if you are looking for some newer technology on a budget I think you should go with the R7.

  14. #14
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    One thing I forgot to mention was how the ball seemed to fly off the face of the R7. When I hit it, it just screamed off the face, it always felt like I had just hit a 300yard bomb. Give one a test run and see how you go.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobdeep
    I used to use the Taylor Made R7 460, it is a great club for somebody who slices the ball. The face is so closed that I struggled to hit the ball straight, everything was left. So it should be perfect for you. It is nice and long too. I picked mine up for $120 off ebay, they are great value for money, on top of that you get the little weight kit and you can play around with that to aid your slice.

    I had a hit with the new Callaway FT IQ the other day & I honestly dont see the appeal. It wasn't any longer or any more forgiving than other drivers I have owned, including the R7, and the FT IQ retails at $800.

    I also have the Macgregor MT460 that someone mentioned above, awesome value for money but I think the shaft and head combo suits a nice smooth swing. When I wind up on it, I seem to get some inconsistency. It's not the best driver I have hit but for $140 brand new I can't complain. It is my back up driver.

    I love the Ping G10 but that is just my personal preference & in your case if you are looking for some newer technology on a budget I think you should go with the R7.
    Some great advice there Mobdeep.

    I'm interested in your view on the FTIQ. I hit the original FTI and thought it was the biggest POS that I have ever demoed but I was playing with a guy at the weekend who has demoed the new FTIQ and reckons it's awesome. He's considering getting one. It's only the hefty (or should that be ridiculous) price tag putting him off. I'm convinced it's just another overpriced gimmicky POS. Does it sound like you're hitting a garbage can with an iron like the original FTI did?
    I chose the road less traveled.

    Now where the f#ck am I?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Purist
    The guy has described his swing....He Slices. If you are slicing the ball it doesn't matter how many cc's you have the ball is not going straight. If he were to decrease loft, he would increase the amount of slice spin he's putting on the ball. Try and pay attention.
    Have you always been a tool or did that just kind of happen one day?


    Edit: No need in responding to that, the thriver comment answered my question.
    Last edited by Myfast; 03-16-2009 at 06:52 AM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myfast
    Have you always been a tool or did that just kind of happen one day?


    Edit: No need in responding to that, the thriver comment answered my question.
    Would I become less of a tool if posted a picture of the iron heads I was collecting?
    The views expressed by The Purist do not necessarily represent the views of The Purist. Any posts by the Purist should not be relied upon for truth or accuracy, and should be viewed at your own risk.

  18. #18
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    I posted a pic of the iron heads that i'm about to shaft, bend and swing weight to my specs. Keep talking about slice spin online and acting like you know what you're talking about. It's the cool thing to do.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myfast
    I posted a pic of the iron heads that i'm about to shaft, bend and swing weight to my specs. Keep talking about slice spin online and acting like you know what you're talking about. It's the cool thing to do.
    Im still a little confused. Is it only cool to post a picture of the iron heads if you brag about how good of a deal you got on them. Maybe you can share some other stories with us about how good you are at finding bargains. Better yet...why don't you tell me how low you can score and how far you can hit it...I might also be impressed by how much money you make and how many girls you've banged.
    The views expressed by The Purist do not necessarily represent the views of The Purist. Any posts by the Purist should not be relied upon for truth or accuracy, and should be viewed at your own risk.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Purist
    Im still a little confused. Is it only cool to post a picture of the iron heads if you brag about how good of a deal you got on them. Maybe you can share some other stories with us about how good you are at finding bargains. Better yet...why don't you tell me how low you can score and how far you can hit it...I might also be impressed by how much money you make and how many girls you've banged.
    Including your mom? I really don't count her, she's just one of those last minute back up calls.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myfast
    Including your mom? I really don't count her, she's just one of those last minute back up calls.
    Ouch...Zing...I give up. You win. We might have just won an award for the MBGRCOTY (most boring golf review conflict of the year.) I will accept responsibility for not caring enough, if you accept responsibility for being lame and unoriginal.
    The views expressed by The Purist do not necessarily represent the views of The Purist. Any posts by the Purist should not be relied upon for truth or accuracy, and should be viewed at your own risk.

  22. #22
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    Ping G10 (12*)
    16 & 19 TM Rescue
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    54 CG14, 58 DSG CG12
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    Does TM Rescues blend well with MP29's ?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by No_Idea
    Does TM Rescues blend well with MP29's ?
    Yeah it blends pretty well. I may lose a little max distance by not having a true 3 wood, but the yardage gaps are manageable. Visually...I don't really care about having matching brands in my bag.
    The views expressed by The Purist do not necessarily represent the views of The Purist. Any posts by the Purist should not be relied upon for truth or accuracy, and should be viewed at your own risk.

  24. #24
    I don't like the Draw idea if it has a closed face. I've never tried one, but my guess is that my draw swing would result in more of a hook with that kind of driver.

    The TM Draw driver is selling for less than other models...probably didn't sell very well. They are advertised for $149. I would go for a TM Burner...awesome club and value.

    For loft, I've always gone with less than 9 over the past several years. I recommend 10 or less with the latest drivers...9.5 should be good.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Purist
    Visually...I don't really care about having matching brands in my bag.
    only faux wankers care about shite like that.
    Be glad we aren't getting all of the government we're paying for.

  26. #26
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    Hi Kiwiplayer - I only used the FTIQ for 1 round so maybe hit it 12 times. The local golf shop let me borrow it while I waited for my G10 to be ordered in. The square head felt strange to me, I never really felt comfortable setting up behind the ball with it but I guess that is more of a personal preference. It had the white Fubuki shaft in it which I thought felt quite nice and smooth.

    I am not a great player but I strike the ball quite solidly and quite straight. The biggest problem with this club I felt was the closed face. It might have only been a couple of degrees but it really bothered me. I hit most of my drives very left which was annoying. I think there might be a tour version which sets up square to open, but I was using the standard version.

    The sound wasn't toooo bad, I think they made some improvements over the FTI which I heard sounded horrible, as you said above. Definitely not the best sounding driver though & when your paying $800 you expect it to feel good & sound good.

    Overall I'm not a fan. I think it is an ok driver, but there are so many better clubs out there for half the price.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by schertzt
    I'm in need of a new driver this season and dont want to play an outragious amount for a new club.

    My golf game used to be a lot better than it has been the past few seasons-mainly because I havnt been playing that much. This season will be very different though I believe.
    Im not the best, usually on 18 holes i'll shoot anywhere from a 90-100


    Right now I currently use a Callaway Hawkeye VFT 11 Degree drivier, but am looking towards the Taylor Made Tour Burner/Burner, or even the Callaway FT-i Driver.


    Now to get to the point, I often slice the ball more than anything. WHen I swicth my stance/grip up, i'll fade extremely bad. What would be your advice on a Draw driver, or should I stay with a regular one? I was also of thinking dropping the degrees to 10 or 10.5 instead of 11.

    Thanks for the advice!
    I would be very surprised if quality control is that great to give you exactly 10.5*. The 10.5* could be 10 or 11*, especially depeding on your set up too, 10*.5 loft could be more or less. If I wanted to try, I would jump from 10.5* to 12* head, instead of 0.5* loft difference

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