Mp 52

[jt1135]

Was out demoing clubs at a few places and tried a Nike forged, Titleist AP 2, Mizuno MX 300 and the Mizzy MP 52. Time to get rid of the MX 19's. Nike sucked, didn't like the MX 300's, AP 2's were ok but the 52's were great. BUT, the facility I tested them at wants about 113 dollars apiece, I only want the 5 - 9 irons. Can't see buying a whole set as I won't use them all. What would be an older Mizuno iron that would be comparable to the 52's that I could pick up cheaper?

[dorkman53]

I'm sure others might have different opinions, but the 52's are a sort of blend between the MX and MP series, and doesn't have any highly comparable predecessors. Closest would be something like the MP 60's on the MP end, and perhaps the MX 23's or MX 25's on the MX end. The MP 52's seem to me to be a blend between the two; a "player's cavity back" on the more forgiving end of the spectrum.

[jt1135]

I am trying to figure out how to work the ball more, between a couple of lessons and practicing a bunch. Would like to stay away from the mx line and get a set of irons that look a lot less clunkier and still be kind of forgiving. Found a few used sets online for about 600 but still comes down to why pay for all the clubs when I am only going to be using half of them? Maybe try something like KZG or another non OEM type could be a possibility. Definitely am going forged tho enough of the cast shiite.

[dorkman53]

Some companies will let you order just certain clubs, such as your 5-9 (and probably PW) preference. You'd have to check with the individual company's customer service rep to find out. Sometimes partial sets like that show up on e-bay. I've usually gone ahead and bought the full set, even though I was only planning to use 4-PW or 5-PW, since I figured it would be worth more in resale. However, it is possible to buy or sell a partial set on e-bay without difficulty; I've gone that route before, too.

[jt1135]

Has anyone have anything to say about srixon forged clubs? They seem to be selling rather cheaply on the bay.

[dorkman53]

Has anyone have anything to say about srixon forged clubs? They seem to be selling rather cheaply on the bay.

They're a very good company, but many Americans haven't heard of them. Since the great unwashed masses wouldn't know them from a K-Mart special, resale suffers. Thus, a potential bargain.

[FreakOfNature]

I am trying to figure out how to work the ball more, between a couple of lessons and practicing a bunch. Would like to stay away from the mx line and get a set of irons that look a lot less clunkier and still be kind of forgiving. Found a few used sets online for about 600 but still comes down to why pay for all the clubs when I am only going to be using half of them? Maybe try something like KZG or another non OEM type could be a possibility. Definitely am going forged tho enough of the cast shiite.

Forgiveness and workability exist at opposite ends of the same spectrum. You're going to have to learn how to give a little to get a little - and it's up to you what balance of those two characteristics you'll find comfortable and beneficial.

If you only want a little workability and a generous amount of forgiveness, the MP-60's are a good choice. If you're looking for more of a balance between workability/forgiveness, then the MP-32's are a great set. If you really don't require much forgiveness then the MP-33's or MP-37's are what you're looking at.

The Taylormade rac MB TP's that I use are somewhere close to the MP-32's, with a bit less forgiveness, and a lower, more penetrating ball flight - good for players with higher clubhead speeds. They are pretty balanced between workability and forgiveness. You should be able to find them online for pretty reasonable prices nowadays.

Hope that helps.



FON

[A V Twiss]

You could give some thought to Hogan Apex blades made between 1990 and 2003. Very old school. Also I'm not sure the knock off merchants ever bothered to try and copy them so an eBay purchase would be quite safe. Earlier Hogan irons had fairly "old school" lofts on them so you may find a ball flight a little high for your tastes, but they are very workable.

[Not a hacker]

Srixon a re very top shelf Japanese forgings. As DM said, they are not marketed very well so nobody has heard of them, but quality wise they are probably closer to Mizuno than Titleist. I've known some people who had the older models and they raved about them.

[12sandwich]

Get some mx 25s for cheap, a hot air gun, peal off the stupid plastic stickers. And tell everyone you got the prototypes to the 52s. You'll be money ahead have a whole set for spit, and not much difference between them. The 52s are nice, but there nothing more than slightly smaller mx 23s I,ve owned the 57s 60s 32s demoed the 52s chose the 57 sold them bought some 37s sweet blades. But the 60s were among my favorites.

[jt1135]

Thanks for all the input. Just waiting now for my tax return and take the plunge into forged clubs.

[Pky6471]

Thanks for all the input. Just waiting now for my tax return and take the plunge into forged clubs.

Let us know when you shave 3 strokes

[dorkman53]

Thanks for all the input. Just waiting now for my tax return and take the plunge into forged clubs.

There is a widely held misconception that "forged" = "blades." While all blades that I am aware of are forged, there are many cavity backs and muscle-cavitybacks which are also forged. Forging is a metallurgical process as opposed to casting. Forging makes the metal more compact. People will argue ad infinitum whether one can tell the difference or not, if they weren't told in advance. There are some very soft feeling cast clubs, but many believe (and I'm one of them) that a forged club has a more solid, sweeter feel on a well struck shot. Forged clubs can also be bent to alter the specs (loft, lie angle) to a greater degree than cast clubs, again, due to the metallurgy involved.

[jt1135]

One of the main reasons that I want to go forged is that when I set up for the ball I hold my hands quite low and a couple of different fitters said that they probably couldn't flatten a cast club enough to fit my swing. I could try to change my setup but I now have a repeatable swing and don't want to change that.

[daveperkins]

One of the main reasons that I want to go forged is that when I set up for the ball I hold my hands quite low and a couple of different fitters said that they probably couldn't flatten a cast club enough to fit my swing. I could try to change my setup but I now have a repeatable swing and don't want to change that.

If you want cast clubs made flat, you have to order them, by Ping color code and so forth. Highest possible retail price to be paid. If you try to bend a cast club more than a tiny bit, you'll either break it or you'll find that, a month later, it's inexplicably back to where it was before you bent it.

[Pky6471]

There is a widely held misconception that "forged" = "blades." While all blades that I am aware of are forged, there are many cavity backs and muscle-cavitybacks which are also forged. Forging is a metallurgical process as opposed to casting. Forging makes the metal more compact. People will argue ad infinitum whether one can tell the difference or not, if they weren't told in advance. There are some very soft feeling cast clubs, but many believe (and I'm one of them) that a forged club has a more solid, sweeter feel on a well struck shot. Forged clubs can also be bent to alter the specs (loft, lie angle) to a greater degree than cast clubs, again, due to the metallurgy involved.

(Reference) Advantages and disadvantages

Forging can produce a piece that is stronger than an equivalent cast or machined part. As the metal is shaped during the forging process, its internal grain deforms to follow the general shape of the part. As a result, the grain is continuous throughout the part, giving rise to a piece with improved strength characteristics.[citation needed]

Some metals may be forged cold, however iron and steel are almost always hot forged. Hot forging prevents the work hardening that would result from cold forming, which would increase the difficulty of performing secondary machining operations on the piece. Also, while work hardening may be desirable in some circumstances, other methods of hardening the piece, such as heat treating, are generally more economical and more controllable. Alloys that are amenable to precipitation hardening, such as most aluminium alloys and titanium, can be hot forged, followed by hardening.

Production forging involves significant capital expenditure for machinery, tooling, facilities and personnel. In the case of hot forging, a high temperature furnace (sometimes referred to as the forge) will be required to heat ingots or billets. Owing to the massiveness of large forging hammers and presses and the parts they can produce, as well as the dangers inherent in working with hot metal, a special building is frequently required to house the operation. In the case of drop forging operations, provisions must be made to absorb the shock and vibration generated by the hammer. Most forging operations will require the use of metal-forming dies, which must be precisely machined and carefully heat treated to correctly shape the workpiece, as well as to withstand the tremendous forces involved.


I don't know how much forged clubs could be reshaped without damaging its internal structure , but personally I have my wedge bent from 52* to 48* without problem. I would hesitate to go more than that

[Not a hacker]

(Reference) Advantages and disadvantages

Forging can produce a piece that is stronger than an equivalent cast or machined part. As the metal is shaped during the forging process, its internal grain deforms to follow the general shape of the part. As a result, the grain is continuous throughout the part, giving rise to a piece with improved strength characteristics.[citation needed]

Some metals may be forged cold, however iron and steel are almost always hot forged. Hot forging prevents the work hardening that would result from cold forming, which would increase the difficulty of performing secondary machining operations on the piece. Also, while work hardening may be desirable in some circumstances, other methods of hardening the piece, such as heat treating, are generally more economical and more controllable. Alloys that are amenable to precipitation hardening, such as most aluminium alloys and titanium, can be hot forged, followed by hardening.

Production forging involves significant capital expenditure for machinery, tooling, facilities and personnel. In the case of hot forging, a high temperature furnace (sometimes referred to as the forge) will be required to heat ingots or billets. Owing to the massiveness of large forging hammers and presses and the parts they can produce, as well as the dangers inherent in working with hot metal, a special building is frequently required to house the operation. In the case of drop forging operations, provisions must be made to absorb the shock and vibration generated by the hammer. Most forging operations will require the use of metal-forming dies, which must be precisely machined and carefully heat treated to correctly shape the workpiece, as well as to withstand the tremendous forces involved.


I don't know how much forged clubs could be reshaped without damaging its internal structure , but personally I have my wedge bent from 52* to 48* without problem. I would hesitate to go more than that

Do you think that workplace safety regluators in China would be checking all these things?

[Pky6471]

Do you think that workplace safety regluators in China would be checking all these things?

China won't respect "safety regulations", "IP", "human rights" and much more. Don't expect high quality products from China. Taiwan on the other hand is much better

[Not a hacker]

China won't respect "safety regulations", "IP", "human rights" and much more. Don't expect high quality products from China. Taiwan on the other hand is much better

That was my point entirely. As all nearly all OEM forgings are now made in China (even Mizuno get's some of their stuff made there) it is unlikely that the previous high quality of forgings will be maintained. If you want to get a real forged club these dyas you will either have to pay top dollar for a boutique Jap brand like Miura, or go to the bay and pick up a second hand set at least 2 years old for GFF, or much older for the rest. Same deal goes for cast irons. Even Ping has now moved maufacturing off shore, so you will have to go second hand to get stuff made properly.

And although I don't know this for sure, I would bet that the clubs in the pros bags aren't always manufactured in the same factory as the shelf crap.

[oldplayer]

There is a widely held misconception that "forged" = "blades." While all blades that I am aware of are forged, there are many cavity backs and muscle-cavitybacks which are also forged. Forging is a metallurgical process as opposed to casting. Forging makes the metal more compact. People will argue ad infinitum whether one can tell the difference or not, if they weren't told in advance. There are some very soft feeling cast clubs, but many believe (and I'm one of them) that a forged club has a more solid, sweeter feel on a well struck shot. Forged clubs can also be bent to alter the specs (loft, lie angle) to a greater degree than cast clubs, again, due to the metallurgy involved.

There are a couple of exceptions I can think of off the top of my head. hogan redlines were cast, as are bridgestone 603 prospec. Also maxfli A10 tours are a blade in the 8,9 and pw but are cast nickel chrome. Plenty of wedges that are cast and they are blades. All cleveland form forged are closer to cast in metallurgy than to forged and are made of stainless steel I think. There are probably more too. Not being smart Dorkman, just pointing out that cast blades do if fact exist.

[SoonerBS]

There are a couple of exceptions I can think of off the top of my head. hogan redlines were cast, as are bridgestone 603 prospec. Also maxfli A10 tours are a blade in the 8,9 and pw but are cast nickel chrome. Plenty of wedges that are cast and they are blades. All cleveland form forged are closer to cast in metallurgy than to forged and are made of stainless steel I think. There are probably more too. Not being smart Dorkman, just pointing out that cast blades do if fact exist.

Such sacrilege!!

[Not a hacker]

There are a couple of exceptions I can think of off the top of my head. hogan redlines were cast, as are bridgestone 603 prospec. Also maxfli A10 tours are a blade in the 8,9 and pw but are cast nickel chrome. Plenty of wedges that are cast and they are blades. All cleveland form forged are closer to cast in metallurgy than to forged and are made of stainless steel I think. There are probably more too. Not being smart Dorkman, just pointing out that cast blades do if fact exist.

I think Cleveland had a cast blade model too.

[Drew Austin]

Cast blades, how uncivilized!

[Not a hacker]

There is a widely held misconception that "forged" = "blades." While all blades that I am aware of are forged, there are many cavity backs and muscle-cavitybacks which are also forged. Forging is a metallurgical process as opposed to casting. Forging makes the metal more compact. People will argue ad infinitum whether one can tell the difference or not, if they weren't told in advance. There are some very soft feeling cast clubs, but many believe (and I'm one of them) that a forged club has a more solid, sweeter feel on a well struck shot. Forged clubs can also be bent to alter the specs (loft, lie angle) to a greater degree than cast clubs, again, due to the metallurgy involved.

Hey Dorkie,

I think I read that Scratch wedges are cast. Just sayin....

[Pky6471]

That was my point entirely. As all nearly all OEM forgings are now made in China (even Mizuno get's some of their stuff made there) it is unlikely that the previous high quality of forgings will be maintained. If you want to get a real forged club these dyas you will either have to pay top dollar for a boutique Jap brand like Miura, or go to the bay and pick up a second hand set at least 2 years old for GFF, or much older for the rest. Same deal goes for cast irons. Even Ping has now moved maufacturing off shore, so you will have to go second hand to get stuff made properly.

And although I don't know this for sure, I would bet that the clubs in the pros bags aren't always manufactured in the same factory as the shelf crap.

In the book of "Quality is Free".. it's defined as 'meeting requirements'. Most manufacturing moves to China because of low cost and that is one way to compete. Old-node Computer chips are mostly made by TSMC , UMC in Taiwan because of high level of "requirements' in quality. Most HDTV TV are made in Korea and Taiwan, Vizio could be made in China (?) . Golf clubs are the same way, they can't compete if they don't move to China. The 60-min TV program last year showed that China clone clubs play "as well as" OEM clubs.... no one reports "quality" , they just test its "playability"... So if we believe that we have a "high quality" set and like it, then keep it

[jt1135]

made the jump today and picked up a nice set of MP57's. The golf pro who I had taken a few lessons from, just got in a used set this weekend. God are the sweet to hit. Should have went forged instead of buying those MX19's. Ah well, live and learn.

[SoonerBS]

made the jump today and picked up a nice set of MP57's. The golf pro who I had taken a few lessons from, just got in a used set this weekend. God are the sweet to hit. Should have went forged instead of buying those MX19's. Ah well, live and learn.

The 57s had a little more offset than what I wanted, but they are still a good set of player's cavity backs. Enjoy them and hit 'em straight.