OK, this would be a question I guess for Sooner, Kiwi, OP, Zo? and anyone else that has played these irons. I just bought this set used at Golfmart in Del Mar and talked the guy down from $179 to $129. They are in pretty good condition but the 7 iron has wear on the sole with chrome loss and the 8 iron is starting to get that way. Strange because the faces are near perfect. Anyway, they are standard length, DG S300, standard lie, etc. The grips are old and pretty hard.
I took them to the range and they are much heavier feeling than what I'm used to using. Plus, I was hitting off of mats from very tight lies. I hit off of the part you stand on because I can't stand those fluffy, smallish mats that catch your club. The results are kind of mixed. I hit some really good shots that felt wonderful and some felt horrible. Trajectory is lower than what I'm used to. Surprising because I've hear the MP-33 has a higher trajectory. I really couldn't tell distance wise how they performed because of range balls, etc. but it felt like I was hitting it shorter.
I will give these a try on the course but my first thought is that these are going to make the game more difficult. It's essential that I change out the grips because that could completely change everything and make them feel much better.
I don't think I'll know anything until I take them out on the course.
Nice looking irons. The lofts may have been bent strong. Check them. Some of those MP heads weigh a good bit more than other maker's forged heads. My MP 14 heads are each about 20 grams heavier than the Titleist 755's I have and about 10-15 grams heavier than my FG 17 heads. Off mats, my MP 14's are OK but feel like the lies are all too upright. Off turf or from the rough, they feel spot-on. Mats suck for anything other than satisfying the hitting Jones.
OK, this would be a question I guess for Sooner, Kiwi, OP, Zo? and anyone else that has played these irons. I just bought this set used at Golfmart in Del Mar and talked the guy down from $179 to $129. They are in pretty good condition but the 7 iron has wear on the sole with chrome loss and the 8 iron is starting to get that way. Strange because the faces are near perfect. Anyway, they are standard length, DG S300, standard lie, etc. The grips are old and pretty hard.
I took them to the range and they are much heavier feeling than what I'm used to using. Plus, I was hitting off of mats from very tight lies. I hit off of the part you stand on because I can't stand those fluffy, smallish mats that catch your club. The results are kind of mixed. I hit some really good shots that felt wonderful and some felt horrible. Trajectory is lower than what I'm used to. Surprising because I've hear the MP-33 has a higher trajectory. I really couldn't tell distance wise how they performed because of range balls, etc. but it felt like I was hitting it shorter.
I will give these a try on the course but my first thought is that these are going to make the game more difficult. It's essential that I change out the grips because that could completely change everything and make them feel much better.
I don't think I'll know anything until I take them out on the course.
I've read somewhere that MP33 irons are equally good as MP14, have not tried either one, I feel sad
Also, the DG300 shafts are fairly heavy and promote low ball flight. At least for me that's how they are. I can't stand those shafts. They've made every iron I've used them with dull and lifeless.
Also, the DG300 shafts are fairly heavy and promote low ball flight. At least for me that's how they are. I can't stand those shafts. They've made every iron I've used them with dull and lifeless.
For me it depends on what iron is paired with the DG S300. For example, the Titleist 990 irons feel absolutely perfect with that shaft. The MP-14 irons feel too heavy and boardy with the same shaft.
For the older, clubhead speed challenged, guy like me, swapping the Dynamic Gold S300's for Dynalight Gold Superlight S300's, turned the low-hitting, hard to swing hard, MP's into the easiest to hit high, low, left, right blades I've ever struck. I've hit 200 balls off range mats with my re-shafted MP 14's with no pains afterwards. With the heavier DG shafts, about 50 balls and my back would start twinging, my elbows start to burn, and I'd be unable to hit the sweet spot with any conviction more than 1 in 3. No such probs with the lighter shafts. Amazing. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't experienced it.
For the older, clubhead speed challenged, guy like me, swapping the Dynamic Gold S300's for Dynalight Gold Superlight S300's, turned the low-hitting, hard to swing hard, MP's into the easiest to hit high, low, left, right blades I've ever struck. I've hit 200 balls off range mats with my re-shafted MP 14's with no pains afterwards. With the heavier DG shafts, about 50 balls and my back would start twinging, my elbows start to burn, and I'd be unable to hit the sweet spot with any conviction more than 1 in 3. No such probs with the lighter shafts. Amazing. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't experienced it.
I believe you because back in 1995 I played Mizuno Grad irons with Dynalite Gold R-300 shafts and they felt like pure butter. I could take an aggessive swing with them as well. The only problem I had was hitting them left. Also, if I got to quick with them I'd hit a floater that would drift off to the right.
I've spent time with the MS-11, MP-11, MP-14, and MP-33, all with S300, and the 33 is the worst of the bunch. The head is too big. The lofts may be lower, and I wonder what the point was, since the older models didn't hit particularly high anyway. As an Ebay trawler, I think an interesting experiment would be to put the old Hogan legend shafts in the 33.
Yeah the 33's are not my favorite. Some people reckon they are forgiving. I dissagree. The club head is bigger but the sweet spot is still small. They definately don't suit a sweeper so if you play this model and many like it you need a bit off swingspeed and trap the ball. Thin shots or toe hits go nowhere.
They are tops in the looks department though. Perhaps that accounts for the popularity. The higher ballflight (which i agree with) is really only from the 7 iron to pw.
The mp29's were are superior blade IMO. They were based on the JDM TN-87 (Tommy Nakajima) which had a copper underlay. Now these are BUTTER SOFT.
Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal
Yeah the 33's are not my favorite. Some people reckon they are forgiving. I dissagree. The club head is bigger but the sweet spot is still small. They definately don't suit a sweeper so if you play this model and many like it you need a bit off swingspeed and trap the ball. Thin shots or toe hits go nowhere.
They are tops in the looks department though. Perhaps that accounts for the popularity. The higher ballflight (which i agree with) is really only from the 7 iron to pw.
The mp29's were are superior blade IMO. They were based on the JDM TN-87 (Tommy Nakajima) which had a copper underlay. Now these are BUTTER SOFT.
It must be that Spring is in the air because I've been frequenting golf stores more than usual. I stopped in at Golfsmith today and took a gander at some of their used clubs. Whoever prices the used clubs must be on drugs because none of the prices make sense. They had a set of Titleist 990 irons in poor condition for $384 but then they had a set of Ping Eye 2 BeCu 3-SW going for $275. However, what I found on one of the shelves was nothing short of amazing...a set of 9 out of 10 Bridgestone J33 Cavity Back irons in prestine condition for $122.99. I tried for $100 but they wouldn't go for it. I'm headed out to the range in a few minutes to try them out and I'm meeting a guy who's going to buy my Mizuno MP-33 irons. I tried the J33s in the hitting net and they felt fabulous. Another nice iron, by the way, is the Callaway Razr. Feels great and less filling.
I've spent time with the MS-11, MP-11, MP-14, and MP-33, all with S300, and the 33 is the worst of the bunch. The head is too big. The lofts may be lower, and I wonder what the point was, since the older models didn't hit particularly high anyway. As an Ebay trawler, I think an interesting experiment would be to put the old Hogan legend shafts in the 33.
I have just about every forged hogan in that "Hogan forged blade family picture" they have on the internet, However the info on shafts is quite sparse. What do you know about the different shafts...you know the Vectors, and the Legend. I have the Apex shafts figured out, but I have a set of Apex II blades with Legend 3 shafts, and a Radial set with Vector 4, and I always wondered what the deal is with these non Apex shafts...can you or anyone provide any feedback on these shafts?
It must be that Spring is in the air because I've been frequenting golf stores more than usual. I stopped in at Golfsmith today and took a gander at some of their used clubs. Whoever prices the used clubs must be on drugs because none of the prices make sense. They had a set of Titleist 990 irons in poor condition for $384 but then they had a set of Ping Eye 2 BeCu 3-SW going for $275. However, what I found on one of the shelves was nothing short of amazing...a set of 9 out of 10 Bridgestone J33 Cavity Back irons in prestine condition for $122.99. I tried for $100 but they wouldn't go for it. I'm headed out to the range in a few minutes to try them out and I'm meeting a guy who's going to buy my Mizuno MP-33 irons. I tried the J33s in the hitting net and they felt fabulous. Another nice iron, by the way, is the Callaway Razr. Feels great and less filling.
Nice choice. I play the J36CB, And I've played the J33CB in the past. Great irons.
No sense in me commenting on them if you are going to sell them. Seems like you would save some time just trying out a 6 iron every once and a while.
I've said this same thing many times: I have the 33s, 67s and 52s. Of the three, the 33s are the hardest to hit, although I hit them a lot better now than what I use to. The 52s are the easier to hit, but I loathe the wide soles and less feel of this club. The 67s are the best of everything I like -- narrow sole, great feel and mid ball flight.
The best shaft I have ever hit, and I have hit several, are the DG S300 shafts. They give the mid high ball flight I like and have superb feel. However, shafts are subjective to each person's own ball swing, so you will not always find the same comments on every type of shaft. Bottomline: you have to find what works for you.
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
OK, this would be a question I guess for Sooner, Kiwi, OP, Zo? and anyone else that has played these irons. I just bought this set used at Golfmart in Del Mar and talked the guy down from $179 to $129. They are in pretty good condition but the 7 iron has wear on the sole with chrome loss and the 8 iron is starting to get that way. Strange because the faces are near perfect. Anyway, they are standard length, DG S300, standard lie, etc. The grips are old and pretty hard.
I took them to the range and they are much heavier feeling than what I'm used to using. Plus, I was hitting off of mats from very tight lies. I hit off of the part you stand on because I can't stand those fluffy, smallish mats that catch your club. The results are kind of mixed. I hit some really good shots that felt wonderful and some felt horrible. Trajectory is lower than what I'm used to. Surprising because I've hear the MP-33 has a higher trajectory. I really couldn't tell distance wise how they performed because of range balls, etc. but it felt like I was hitting it shorter.
I will give these a try on the course but my first thought is that these are going to make the game more difficult. It's essential that I change out the grips because that could completely change everything and make them feel much better.
I don't think I'll know anything until I take them out on the course.
At first the game WOULD probably be more difficult because your swing probably has flaws from hitting GI clubs. But, over time, you would learn where those flaws were coming from and fix them. Then the MP-33s would become easier to hit and may even improve your game. But, like most, you will likely not take the time to better your swing by playing a set of these because you are looking for instant gratification like 90% of all golfers do.
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
The 33-s are going to feel alot different than what I think you've hit, not sure it's hard to keep track without a spreadsheet. Firstly, get the lofts and lies checked as they're unlikely to be to spec out of the used bin. Secondly, try not to hit them on mats as Mizunos are notorious for being apt to bend. Thirdly, they want to be hit down on, not swept. If you do those things they should respond. If you don't you'll probably hate them.
I suspect if you don't like them, you ought to do ok reselling them. Although the best ball-striker in the world ought to love them.
At first the game WOULD probably be more difficult because your swing probably has flaws from hitting GI clubs. But, over time, you would learn where those flaws were coming from and fix them. Then the MP-33s would become easier to hit and may even improve your game. But, like most, you will likely not take the time to better your swing by playing a set of these because you are looking for instant gratification like 90% of all golfers do.
No sense in me commenting on them if you are going to sell them. Seems like you would save some time just trying out a 6 iron every once and a while.
I've said this same thing many times: I have the 33s, 67s and 52s. Of the three, the 33s are the hardest to hit, although I hit them a lot better now than what I use to. The 52s are the easier to hit, but I loathe the wide soles and less feel of this club. The 67s are the best of everything I like -- narrow sole, great feel and mid ball flight.
The best shaft I have ever hit, and I have hit several, are the DG S300 shafts. They give the mid high ball flight I like and have superb feel. However, shafts are subjective to each person's own ball swing, so you will not always find the same comments on every type of shaft. Bottomline: you have to find what works for you.
DG S300 shafts are designed and prmotoed by True Temper to promote low ball flight, not mid or high. So I'm not sure what you're getting, but in my experience, your results are the exception rather than the rule.
DG S300 shafts are designed and prmotoed by True Temper to promote low ball flight, not mid or high. So I'm not sure what you're getting, but in my experience, your results are the exception rather than the rule.
I know shafts are supposed to have trajectory characteristics, but I don't think the shaft has much affect on trajectory, high ball hitters hit it high with any shaft and low ball hitters hit it low with any shaft. Personally I have found that some clubheads hit it lower than others, but the shaft doesn't make much difference.
The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.
Today they had a Nike tent day at the new range I have to go to now since they shut down my old course. The new place is a Nike dealer course. The freeloader people were hogging all the stalls so I went into the proshop bought my own bucket of balls and since I was the only paying customer was then treated like a king...they knocked an old dude off the stall pretending he was interested in a Nike driver for hours, and I then started coaching my kid on some draws and fades with our own clubs.
I noticed that with the exeption of one maybe two people none of the people there could hit any of the new Nike sheite any better than me with my old sheite. There was not one person there that tried to even attempt to hit the nike blades sitting there. And they looked at me hit my Hogan blades and just assumed I was a scratch player watching me occasionally demonstrate a nuts on draw or fade for my kid.
You know, I really do wonder how people actually score as low as they do when I rarely see someone hit that well even with GI rackets.
Last time I was out, I was away for a while and my blade striking was off a little. today I brought my Callaway X14pros as backups but left them in the car because I was back to normal with the blades. And I still have not made up my mind about swapping my long Hogan Grind blade irons for Hogan edge/apexFTX forged cavity for I am still hitting the blades more consistant than the Hogan Forged CB 3 and 4.
I know shafts are supposed to have trajectory characteristics, but I don't think the shaft has much affect on trajectory, high ball hitters hit it high with any shaft and low ball hitters hit it low with any shaft. Personally I have found that some clubheads hit it lower than others, but the shaft doesn't make much difference.
This is true. It is more about the swing applied than the shafts. However, certain shafts swung by the same swing will function differently. Again, a person has to find out for themselves.
I'd like to buy me some MP-32s and put my Nippon 1150s in them that I currently having the MP-52s. I still think the Nippons are probably good shafts, but I am just not overly impressed with the MP-52s.
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
This is true. It is more about the swing applied than the shafts. However, certain shafts swung by the same swing will function differently. Again, a person has to find out for themselves.
I'd like to buy me some MP-32s and put my Nippon 1150s in them that I currently having the MP-52s. I still think the Nippons are probably good shafts, but I am just not overly impressed with the MP-52s.
I've had Nippons before and I was really impressed with them. They were a little on the soft side, but still accurate. They were noticably lighter than other steel shafts, and probably a good shaft for slower swing speeds, but mine were the 950s so were probably targetted at slower swing speeds. I'd like to get the 1150s in stiff for a demo, I think they would be nice.
The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.
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Originally Posted by oldplayer
Yeah the 33's are not my favorite. Some people reckon they are forgiving. I dissagree. The club head is bigger but the sweet spot is still small. They definately don't suit a sweeper so if you play this model and many like it you need a bit off swingspeed and trap the ball. Thin shots or toe hits go nowhere.
They are tops in the looks department though. Perhaps that accounts for the popularity. The higher ballflight (which i agree with) is really only from the 7 iron to pw.
The mp29's were are superior blade IMO. They were based on the JDM TN-87 (Tommy Nakajima) which had a copper underlay. Now these are BUTTER SOFT.
Op you claim the tn 87 had a copper underlay. Does that mean the mp 29 do as well?
Tm R9 420cc 9.5 Motore Tm R9 3 wood rip phenom, Titleist 909h 19* 24* voodoo, Scratch EZ-1 ds i80,steelfiber 3 or 4. 5-9 KBS, ds 47* jlm, pdg 53* ds 60* Odyssey Black 2 ball tour blade 33.5" Lethal
I know shafts are supposed to have trajectory characteristics, but I don't think the shaft has much affect on trajectory, high ball hitters hit it high with any shaft and low ball hitters hit it low with any shaft. Personally I have found that some clubheads hit it lower than others, but the shaft doesn't make much difference.
This has not been my experience. I've changed out shafts in 2 sets of irons and it's changed how they play and feel, and not in a subtle way. Even more pronounced if you're talking about woods. The feel, tip stiffness, kick point etc, they all make the same driver head perform very differently. At least for me they have.
I know shafts are supposed to have trajectory characteristics, but I don't think the shaft has much affect on trajectory, high ball hitters hit it high with any shaft and low ball hitters hit it low with any shaft. Personally I have found that some clubheads hit it lower than others, but the shaft doesn't make much difference.
Sorry, this is incorrect. There used to be a True Temper-labeled OEM shaft (possibly made by Apollo), e.g. the Duo-Power for Powerbilt, that truly caused high ball flight. It had a bunch of steps closely grouped in the middle, and not much toward the tip. With that shaft people would often remark, "damn you hit the ball high." In contrast, no one ever says that when I'm using S300's, even though I havce one of those '70's-style upright swing planes. The S300's just won't produce the parachute ball.
This has not been my experience. I've changed out shafts in 2 sets of irons and it's changed how they play and feel, and not in a subtle way. Even more pronounced if you're talking about woods. The feel, tip stiffness, kick point etc, they all make the same driver head perform very differently. At least for me they have.
I agree that differnet shafts can totally change the way clubs play and feel, especially flex, but IMO different shafts at the same flex don't affect the height of the ball flight. With drivers I find the softer tips definitely affect accuracy and distance for me, and although not affecting height that much I conceed that some graphite shafts can balloon a bit. But then again there is a lot more technology in graphite driver shafts than steel iron shafts so you would expect a pronounced difference in feel and playability (and trajectory).
The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.
Sorry, this is incorrect. There used to be a True Temper-labeled OEM shaft (possibly made by Apollo), e.g. the Duo-Power for Powerbilt, that truly caused high ball flight. It had a bunch of steps closely grouped in the middle, and not much toward the tip. With that shaft people would often remark, "damn you hit the ball high." In contrast, no one ever says that when I'm using S300's, even though I havce one of those '70's-style upright swing planes. The S300's just won't produce the parachute ball.
I agree that some shafts may balloon the ball, but IMO that will be more a flex issue than the design of the shaft. I'd bet that the generic shafts you spoke of which balloon the ball did not play to the same flex as legit DG. From my experience most generic 'firm' or 'stiff' shafts would probably have been at the softer end of reg on real deal DG shafts.
The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.
I will soon be owning a couple of more sets of beautiful forged bliss to add to my collection. I will let you know after auctions are done.
By the way, I will be taking out the Nippon 1150 shafts from my MP-52s and putting them in one of these sets and putting some S300s in the MP-52s and selling them. I am no longer interested in owning a set of irons that have very little feel to them.
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
I will soon be owning a couple of more sets of beautiful forged bliss to add to my collection. I will let you know after auctions are done.
By the way, I will be taking out the Nippon 1150 shafts from my MP-52s and putting them in one of these sets and putting some S300s in the MP-52s and selling them. I am no longer interested in owning a set of irons that have very little feel to them.
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
Op you claim the tn 87 had a copper underlay. Does that mean the mp 29 do as well?
Now of that I am not sure. I have heard that they have, but don't know it for a fact. I guess it would be quite easy to find out if you stripped the chrome off. Something I am not prepared to do. The 29's do definately feel softer than other mizunos IMO so perhaps they do have the same underlay as the TN-87's.
Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal
I will soon be owning a couple of more sets of beautiful forged bliss to add to my collection. I will let you know after auctions are done.
By the way, I will be taking out the Nippon 1150 shafts from my MP-52s and putting them in one of these sets and putting some S300s in the MP-52s and selling them. I am no longer interested in owning a set of irons that have very little feel to them.
Don't leave us in suspense! What are you bidding on?
Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal
Now you are talking!!
Great choices, you will love both of those sets. Good luck and i hope you win them. There are plenty of 32's around so don't pay too much for them. The Z101's are a little harder to find so it's worth paying a little extra if the condition is good and the shafts are right for you.
Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal
Now you are talking!!
Great choices, you will love both of those sets. Good luck and i hope you win them. There are plenty of 32's around so don't pay too much for them. The Z101's are a little harder to find so it's worth paying a little extra if the condition is good and the shafts are right for you.
I am planning on putting the Nippon shafts in the Tourstage clubs. I WILL have to pay more for the Tourstage irons.
I'm anxious to see what the difference is between the 32s and my 67s.
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
I am planning on putting the Nippon shafts in the Tourstage clubs. I WILL have to pay more for the Tourstage irons.
I'm anxious to see what the difference is between the 32s and my 67s.
The Z101's should feel very smooth with the nippons. They may kick the 67's out of the bag. The 32's are a little chunkier than the 67's but are a nice solid club all the same.
Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal
Nice choice. I play the J36CB, And I've played the J33CB in the past. Great irons.
I had a chance to hit the J33 Cavity Backs on the range and they are one of the best feeling irons I've tried. The set up perfectly for me and seem to get plenty of distance. Much easier to hit than the MP-33.
I had a chance to hit the J33 Cavity Backs on the range and they are one of the best feeling irons I've tried. The set up perfectly for me and seem to get plenty of distance. Much easier to hit than the MP-33.
I've always liked the look of Bridgestone forged irons, I will have to keep an eye out for a set if even a chopper like you can hit them.
The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.
Now you are talking!!
Great choices, you will love both of those sets. Good luck and i hope you win them. There are plenty of 32's around so don't pay too much for them. The Z101's are a little harder to find so it's worth paying a little extra if the condition is good and the shafts are right for you.
Hi oldplayer.. any comments on this Maruman 31EX? Just bought it today~
Hi oldplayer.. any comments on this Maruman 31EX? Just bought it today~
Yeah Maruman forgings are very good, typical Japanese quality with a nice soft feel. I have never played their blades but i do have a set of players cavities, Conductor 42CX. These are a beautifully finished satin chrome blade style cavity. I actually took them out for a hit last week and the feel and performance is great. I did notice however that they are not particularly forgiving. So I imagine the blades will be even less so. The most striking difference about my set compared to U.S. design is the reverse offset. The pw has quite a bit of offset and it gradually gets less down to the 3 iron. This is a design favoured in recent times for the JDM. I wonder if your blades are the same? Let us know how you like them. Thanks for sharing.
Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal
Yeah Maruman forgings are very good, typical Japanese quality with a nice soft feel. I have never played their blades but i do have a set of players cavities, Conductor 42CX. These are a beautifully finished satin chrome blade style cavity. I actually took them out for a hit last week and the feel and performance is great. I did notice however that they are not particularly forgiving. So I imagine the blades will be even less so. The most striking difference about my set compared to U.S. design is the reverse offset. The pw has quite a bit of offset and it gradually gets less down to the 3 iron. This is a design favoured in recent times for the JDM. I wonder if your blades are the same? Let us know how you like them. Thanks for sharing.
I remember checking out the Maruman Curtis Strange model back in 1993. They were $799 back then. They looked just like the MP-67
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