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  1. #1
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    Mizuno swing DNA - valuable info or load of old bollocks?

    For the past few years I have played the DG S300 in all my irons and when I'm playing well I love these shafts. I hit the ball with a nice high trajectory and with good distance. I've never been fitted for these shafts they just happened to be the shafts I played in all my "off the shelf" irons. When I first started playing them about 4-5 years ago after previously playing a lightweight (DG Dynalite?) shaft I did notice the extra weight but I got used to that pretty quickly.

    Anyway I have been curious to try other shafts such as the KBS Tour, PX etc and also thought that some of the new lightweight shafts might be better suited to me. Always looking for ways to make this game easier right? I thought that the Mizuno swing DNA shaft optimizer was the way to find out so I went along to a fitting whilst in Auckland on Tuesday.

    After hitting a few balls and getting all the readings etc the pro recommended a heavier stiff shaft versus some of the other lighter weight options. He said that a younger, stronger player is better off with a heavier shaft as you want to be able to "feel the weight of the shaft and the clubhead throughout the swing". So he selected the PX 5.0 or 5.5, the DG R or S300 and the KBS Tour Stiff. The KBS felt whippy and I seemed to hit it too high so it came down to the S300 vs the PX. I hit both equally well and don't think I would do significantly better or worse with either of these shafts.

    So long story short it turns out my gut feel was about right and there's no need to drop a tonne of cash buying new irons with fancy new shafts after all. The S300s will do just fine. That's what I thought but it's nice to have a fitting that confirms your gut instinct.

    So much for technology eh? Anybody else done this type of fitting? If so how was your experience?

    Found this on Youtube and it reminded me of my own fitting. Luke seems real impressed with the whole process doesn't he?

    I chose the road less traveled.

    Now where the f#ck am I?

  2. #2
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    Fittings are like arseholes. They are all full of shitt. Ive been told I need lightweight, regular, heavy and stiff shafts, often from readings on the same launch monitor interpreted by different shop staff. You are on thw right track Kiwi, experience and your gut will point you on the right path.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Player View Post
    For the past few years I have played the DG S300 in all my irons and when I'm playing well I love these shafts. I hit the ball with a nice high trajectory and with good distance. I've never been fitted for these shafts they just happened to be the shafts I played in all my "off the shelf" irons. When I first started playing them about 4-5 years ago after previously playing a lightweight (DG Dynalite?) shaft I did notice the extra weight but I got used to that pretty quickly.

    Anyway I have been curious to try other shafts such as the KBS Tour, PX etc and also thought that some of the new lightweight shafts might be better suited to me. Always looking for ways to make this game easier right? I thought that the Mizuno swing DNA shaft optimizer was the way to find out so I went along to a fitting whilst in Auckland on Tuesday.

    After hitting a few balls and getting all the readings etc the pro recommended a heavier stiff shaft versus some of the other lighter weight options. He said that a younger, stronger player is better off with a heavier shaft as you want to be able to "feel the weight of the shaft and the clubhead throughout the swing". So he selected the PX 5.0 or 5.5, the DG R or S300 and the KBS Tour Stiff. The KBS felt whippy and I seemed to hit it too high so it came down to the S300 vs the PX. I hit both equally well and don't think I would do significantly better or worse with either of these shafts. Now to fine tune your iron shafts, you can always soft or hard step them. If the DG S300 is just a touch too stiff, soft step them by putting the 3 iron length shaft in the 4 etc. This will increase the length of the first step from the hosel and make the shaft play slightly more flexible.

    So long story short it turns out my gut feel was about right and there's no need to drop a tonne of cash buying new irons with fancy new shafts after all. The S300s will do just fine. That's what I thought but it's nice to have a fitting that confirms your gut instinct.

    So much for technology eh? Anybody else done this type of fitting? If so how was your experience?

    Found this on Youtube and it reminded me of my own fitting. Luke seems real impressed with the whole process doesn't he?

    The Dynamic Gold S300 has a frequency of approximately 5.8 so it lies between the PX 5.5 and 6.0 flexes. After years of self-experimentation and assisted launch monitor fitting, I find that the Dynalite Gold R300 weight and flex fits me better than any for the irons. I tried the lighter Dynamic Gold SL and Dynalite Gold SL and GS 95 shafts but they all felt too light and too stiff.
    Last edited by mongrel; 04-26-2012 at 04:26 AM. Reason: forgot somtin
    Mostly Taylormade clubs now except for two Ping I25 hybrids, Mizuno 54 & Callaway 56 wedges.

  4. #4
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    When I got my MP-59's last year, the fitter had the Mizuno swing analyzer, but we didn't use it. We used a launch monitor and tried out several different shafts on several different heads. The guy had demo heads that he could wrench a bunch of different shafts to without epoxy.
    He had a chart that had optimum launch, spin, angle of descent, etc. for irons based upon swing speed. We just took about 5 good swings from each shaft and matched it against the chart.
    I went all in with fitting at the end of last year. I reshafted driver, 3 wood, and hybrid. All 3 of those clubs perform much better.
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  5. #5
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    I would like to get meausured on one of those. Hitting a 6iron around 100mph,
    Driver around 120mph.

    I hit my irons high.all of them.Theres about 11yards differences down from my 3 to sw.My 3iron starts at 231yards.And I get backspin with a 3 iron....Who the hell gets backspin with a 3iron....
    ----------------------------------------------------
    "The statement below is true.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not a hacker View Post
    Fittings are like arseholes. They are all full of shitt. Ive been told I need lightweight, regular, heavy and stiff shafts, often from readings on the same launch monitor interpreted by different shop staff. You are on thw right track Kiwi, experience and your gut will point you on the right path.
    I tend to agree. Once you have determined the clubhead you want and get the proper lie angle the next step should be trying the club out on the course for 18 holes of golf. Range sessions will tell you very little.

    For myself, I hate the feel of the rifle and project X shafts. They have a very distinct, muted feel that I don't like at all. The only way to describe it is lifeless and sort of sweet, but not in a tasty way. Like having sugar on a steak.

    My favorite and, IMO, best feeling shaft of all time is the Dynamic Gold R400 shaft. It just feels absolutely perfect to me. I like the KBS Tour shafts but they seem to balloon up too high in the air.

    The best feeling club I've ever hit is one that I had recently purchased and sold, the Mizuno MP-60 with Dynamic Gold R300 shafts. I'm talking pure butter. Not Shed Spread, not I Can't Believe it's not Butter and not Parquet. This was the shizzle and all butter bro'.

  7. #7
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    I have favorite shafts as well. For irons and wedges, it's the Aldila NV Pro 105. For woods, it's the UST Pro Force V2. And I won't tolerate steel on anything but putters, and all of my putters don't even have steel shafts.

    But I still wonder how important all of this is for the non-scratch level player.

    So much of golf is in our heads, and I often wonder which of our concerns are real and which are imagined.

    How did we ever learn to hit the ball well before we understood equipment metrics?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by NiftyNiblick View Post
    I have favorite shafts as well. For irons and wedges, it's the Aldila NV Pro 105. For woods, it's the UST Pro Force V2. And I won't tolerate steel on anything but putters, and all of my putters don't even have steel shafts.

    But I still wonder how important all of this is for the non-scratch level player.

    So much of golf is in our heads, and I often wonder which of our concerns are real and which are imagined.

    How did we ever learn to hit the ball well before we understood equipment metrics?
    My father in law is 7 years older than you and a legit 2 handicap. He switched to graphite about 12 years ago, first with the Callaway X-14 with stock regular shafts and now with Taylormade Tour Burner irons with stock regular graphite shafts. He played Ping Eye 2s with steel shafts prior to switching to the Callaways.

    So, here is one of the best players I've ever played with and he plays game improvement irons with graphite shafts. I have beat him only twice in my lifetime.

    I think his iron play is even better now than it was 15 years ago. Graphite does feel different at first but once you get used to it I think it's more beneficial than steel. For one thing, it's lighter and less damaging to your joints and tendons which equates to less fatigue as the round carries forward.

    However, I will say that I can't stand graphite in "player's clubs" like forged CBs or blades. For one thing it looks funny and I just don't think they go together. If I go graphite I'm doing so with game improvement irons.

    Out.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by famousdavis View Post
    However, I will say that I can't stand graphite in "player's clubs" like forged CBs or blades. For one thing it looks funny and I just don't think they go together. If I go graphite I'm doing so with game improvement irons.

    Out.
    I agree that it probably looks out of place on forged clubs like my inherited Miuras, but my hands don't seem to care.

    On my non-cavity Cleveland wedges, it look even more out of place, but again, my hands don't care much.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NiftyNiblick View Post
    I agree that it probably looks out of place on forged clubs like my inherited Miuras, but my hands don't seem to care.

    On my non-cavity Cleveland wedges, it look even more out of place, but again, my hands don't care much.
    I'm starting to agree with Ralph Maltby that all players should play with game improvement irons. Last time I played I put the Callaway X-14 irons with Callaway steel uniflex shafts in the bag and I hit some fantastic shots. The most surprising thing, however, was the X-14 sand wedge. I hit some great shots out of the sand that day that bounced once, skidded and then ended up 4 feet from the hole. I must have had 3 just like that. Here is this offset, standard issue X-14 sand wedge and I'm hitting it better than my fancy Titleist Vokey Spin-Milled 10 bounce $119 wedge.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by famousdavis View Post
    I'm starting to agree with Ralph Maltby that all players should play with game improvement irons.
    Back in the day, the Maltby GolfWorks used to make some beautiful wooden woods. You got to specify loft, lie, and face angle--even insert color and finish color--at no extra charge. How I wish we could do that with today's equipment.

    There are hand pick options, but it's not nearly the same.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by famousdavis View Post
    I'm starting to agree with Ralph Maltby that all players should play with game improvement irons. Last time I played I put the Callaway X-14 irons with Callaway steel uniflex shafts in the bag and I hit some fantastic shots. The most surprising thing, however, was the X-14 sand wedge. I hit some great shots out of the sand that day that bounced once, skidded and then ended up 4 feet from the hole. I must have had 3 just like that. Here is this offset, standard issue X-14 sand wedge and I'm hitting it better than my fancy Titleist Vokey Spin-Milled 10 bounce $119 wedge.
    The problem with the fitting process is it assumes the swing characteristics you show up with are permanent when in fact they are partly your swing signature and partly your adaptation to existing shafts. When you use a fitting "system" it can at best recommend a shaft for your current adaptation.

    For that reason there is no effective "system." There's no escaping that fitting is part science and part art and to be effective the process has to be conducted by someone who's talented and experienced at it ...and...you need a little luck that he and you will make the right choices.

    Notwithstanding, there is however a benefit to quality shafts. Better materials and QC as compared to OEM-s should produce more stabililty with graphite and more consistency with steel. OEM steel almost always performs very differently within a set whereas a quality set of steel should perform very similarly. Over time this should lead to a better swing adapted to more similar performance throughout the set.

    That is if you're adaptable.
    GR lives...

  13. #13
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    The hound-daig makes a point, but I'll carry it a step further.

    When demanding custom specs, perhaps it's best that we do it on our own recommendation. We all know the flexes, lie angles, and whatnot that we think we need, so perhaps we should order them without external input.

    Then, our heads will think we have the right gear and that will be reflected in our play. Otherwise, we'll blame the fitter on the first errant shot and get it into our heads that we're now playing with a bagful of improperly fitted clubs.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lorenzoinoc View Post
    The problem with the fitting process is it assumes the swing characteristics you show up with are permanent when in fact they are partly your swing signature and partly your adaptation to existing shafts. When you use a fitting "system" it can at best recommend a shaft for your current adaptation.

    For that reason there is no effective "system." There's no escaping that fitting is part science and part art and to be effective the process has to be conducted by someone who's talented and experienced at it ...and...you need a little luck that he and you will make the right choices.

    Notwithstanding, there is however a benefit to quality shafts. Better materials and QC as compared to OEM-s should produce more stabililty with graphite and more consistency with steel. OEM steel almost always performs very differently within a set whereas a quality set of steel should perform very similarly. Over time this should lead to a better swing adapted to more similar performance throughout the set.

    That is if you're adaptable.
    Absolutely correct. When you got fitted, you got fitted for your swing on that day. Now tomorrow, it might be a bit different. Even the best players in the world swing differently on different days. I watched a bit of Luke Donald on the range in N'Awlins last night trying to get back to where he was last year and it doesn't look like its happening any time soon. Watched Yani Tseng last week and her swing looks ten times looser than it did at the end of last year. Another thing for me is that when I go hit balls inside off a mat, I am not swinging like I would with a perfect fairway lie, ball in a divot hole, ball above/below my feet, ball in rough etc. So an indoor fitting would be great for playing golf on level terrain off rubber mats.
    Mostly Taylormade clubs now except for two Ping I25 hybrids, Mizuno 54 & Callaway 56 wedges.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mongrel View Post
    The Dynamic Gold S300 has a frequency of approximately 5.8 so it lies between the PX 5.5 and 6.0 flexes. After years of self-experimentation and assisted launch monitor fitting, I find that the Dynalite Gold R300 weight and flex fits me better than any for the irons. I tried the lighter Dynamic Gold SL and Dynalite Gold SL and GS 95 shafts but they all felt too light and too stiff.
    For me and you both, I've not hit a better feeling steel shaft then the dynalite gold true tempers. I just love that shaft. My A10 tours have them. Several mx sets I've owned had them. I have mint mp-37s that I want to put a set in. That currently have Gs 95 that I can't stand. I still have the original mint s300 shafts with new decades though. I like the rifle 5.5 in my 300 Taylor mades, much better then px. I had some gs 75 that were not good, in some mx23 you had to hit those things hard. They stung
    Tm R9 420cc 9.5 Motore Tm R9 3 wood rip phenom, Titleist 909h 19* 24* voodoo, Scratch EZ-1 ds i80,steelfiber 3 or 4. 5-9 KBS, ds 47* jlm, pdg 53* ds 60* Odyssey Black 2 ball tour blade 33.5" Lethal

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    Quote Originally Posted by 12sandwich View Post
    For me and you both, I've not hit a better feeling steel shaft then the dynalite gold true tempers. I just love that shaft. My A10 tours have them. Several mx sets I've owned had them. I have mint mp-37s that I want to put a set in. That currently have Gs 95 that I can't stand. I still have the original mint s300 shafts with new decades though. I like the rifle 5.5 in my 300 Taylor mades, much better then px. I had some gs 75 that were not good, in some mx23 you had to hit those things hard. They stung
    Dynalite Gold is indeed a wonderful shaft that makes forged irons feel like butter. However, I think they force you to swing a little smoother because they deliver a lot of distance with just an easy swing. They hit the ball a little too high for my taste.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by famousdavis View Post
    I'm starting to agree with Ralph Maltby that all players should play with game improvement irons. Last time I played I put the Callaway X-14 irons with Callaway steel uniflex shafts in the bag and I hit some fantastic shots. The most surprising thing, however, was the X-14 sand wedge. I hit some great shots out of the sand that day that bounced once, skidded and then ended up 4 feet from the hole. I must have had 3 just like that. Here is this offset, standard issue X-14 sand wedge and I'm hitting it better than my fancy Titleist Vokey Spin-Milled 10 bounce $119 wedge.
    FD I have been giving a set of Srixon Z star irons a try. They are forged pocket cavity GI irons. The topline, sole and offset are all very acceptable to my eye and the heads are midsizwe which I don't mind.
    Gotta say I am hitting some fantastic shots with these irons. They are easy to hit and inspire confidence that you can pull off the shot. They have stock nippon 1100 stiff in them and feel very good. The lofts are stupid strong however so I am playing the 4-pw as a 3-9 iron and have put a regular 47* pw in between the set and my 51 gap wedge. This combo is working great. I have shot 73,76, 78 and 74 (cap 4)since they have been in the bag.(And the 78 was in a howling gale with some rain and was one of my best rounds in years)
    Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldplayer View Post
    FD I have been giving a set of Srixon Z star irons a try. They are forged pocket cavity GI irons. The topline, sole and offset are all very acceptable to my eye and the heads are midsizwe which I don't mind.
    Gotta say I am hitting some fantastic shots with these irons. They are easy to hit and inspire confidence that you can pull off the shot. They have stock nippon 1100 stiff in them and feel very good. The lofts are stupid strong however so I am playing the 4-pw as a 3-9 iron and have put a regular 47* pw in between the set and my 51 gap wedge. This combo is working great. I have shot 73,76, 78 and 74 (cap 4)since they have been in the bag.(And the 78 was in a howling gale with some rain and was one of my best rounds in years)
    I saw those a few months back, the Z-Star Forged. To me, they looked a little bulky but not too bad. Glad to hear you are playing well with them. I was surprised today to try out a set of Nike Victory Pro Cavities (cast version) that felt really good. They had Dynalite 100 Stiff Shafts in them and felt sweet. Not too much offset and a fairly compact blade.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldplayer View Post
    FD I have been giving a set of Srixon Z star irons a try. They are forged pocket cavity GI irons. The topline, sole and offset are all very acceptable to my eye and the heads are midsizwe which I don't mind.
    Gotta say I am hitting some fantastic shots with these irons. They are easy to hit and inspire confidence that you can pull off the shot. They have stock nippon 1100 stiff in them and feel very good. The lofts are stupid strong however so I am playing the 4-pw as a 3-9 iron and have put a regular 47* pw in between the set and my 51 gap wedge. This combo is working great. I have shot 73,76, 78 and 74 (cap 4)since they have been in the bag.(And the 78 was in a howling gale with some rain and was one of my best rounds in years)
    Ive spied those myself in golf shops and they look like very nice irons. They look perfect to my eye, a quality forged player cb but with just enough gi about them. Im not looking but from what's available they would make my short list to demo if I were in the market.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by famousdavis View Post
    Dynalite Gold is indeed a wonderful shaft that makes forged irons feel like butter. However, I think they force you to swing a little smoother because they deliver a lot of distance with just an easy swing. They hit the ball a little too high for my taste.
    The JPX800 irons come stock with the Dynalite Gold shafts and I have got along with them great. I can't really tell much difference between them and regular DG S300 shafts.

    Graphite sucks, that is all.

    I know a lot of you like the Nippon shafts, but I have tried the Nippon 1150 shafts in two different sets of irons and I just don't care for them as much as I do the S300s. I can't really say why except that I haven't had the success on shotmaking as I have had with the S300s.
    Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.

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    Quote Originally Posted by famousdavis View Post
    I'm starting to agree with Ralph Maltby that all players should play with game improvement irons. Last time I played I put the Callaway X-14 irons with Callaway steel uniflex shafts in the bag and I hit some fantastic shots. The most surprising thing, however, was the X-14 sand wedge. I hit some great shots out of the sand that day that bounced once, skidded and then ended up 4 feet from the hole. I must have had 3 just like that. Here is this offset, standard issue X-14 sand wedge and I'm hitting it better than my fancy Titleist Vokey Spin-Milled 10 bounce $119 wedge.
    If in "players" you mean those who have already grooved a good swing, I'll agree with you. But, I still think the best way for beginners and high handicappers to learn to groove a swing is to start with some player's cavity-backs or blades.

    I use to think you had to play "player's" clubs in order to work the ball, but I probably work the ball with my JPX800 irons better than I do my blades right now.
    Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.

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    Any clubs can be worked, its about skill not club design. The non off set of players may make it easier to work the ball but it would be marginal. The only advantage of a players club in the hands of a talented player would be distance control. I think forged blades are more precise due to the concentrated sweet spot but much harder to use. I agree hackers are better off getting player clubs while they learn the game as blades will relay information about quality of strike better than a shovel.
    Last edited by Not a hacker; 04-26-2012 at 08:17 PM.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Not a hacker View Post
    Any clubs can be worked, its about skill not club design. The non off set of players may make it easier to work the ball but it would be marginal. The only advantage of a players club in the hands of a talented player would be distance control. I think forged blades are more precise due to the concentrated sweet spot but much harder to use. I agree hackers are better off getting player clubs while they learn the game as blades will relay information about quality of strike better than a shovel.
    It's a little harder to fade the ball with irons that have significant offset. Most of Taylormade's game improvement irons don't really have that much offset compared to Callaway or some of the others.

    The Titleist AP1 irons have very little offset, yet they are clearly a larger, game-improvement iron.

    The one iron set I have that's extremely easy to work is the DCI 990.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SoonerBS View Post
    Graphite sucks, that is all.
    I won't play steel on anything but a putter, and even there, I've got some with graphite or hickory.

    I don't like how steel looks or feels, and if it's more consistent that the best graphite shafts, it won't be for me, because in my mind, I know that I don't like it.

    The last non-putter steel shafted club that I played with regularly was a wedge, the steel shaft of which was painted brown. That helped a little bit.

    I'm not sure how this happened because I obviously played for years with steel shafts. But I have a guess. When I was little, I had one ancient wooden shafted mashie that I played with, hitting smiley old golf balls up and down the beach. Graphite feels a little bit like that old wooden shaft. It doesn't jar like steel. And the funny thing is, even steel players use graphite in their woods, and woods don't really feel jarring, even with steel shafts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NiftyNiblick View Post
    I won't play steel on anything but a putter, and even there, I've got some with graphite or hickory.

    I don't like how steel looks or feels, and if it's more consistent that the best graphite shafts, it won't be for me, because in my mind, I know that I don't like it.

    The last non-putter steel shafted club that I played with regularly was a wedge, the steel shaft of which was painted brown. That helped a little bit.

    I'm not sure how this happened because I obviously played for years with steel shafts. But I have a guess. When I was little, I had one ancient wooden shafted mashie that I played with, hitting smiley old golf balls up and down the beach. Graphitie feels a little bit like that old wooden shaft. It doesn't jar like steel. And the funny thing is, even steel players use graphite in their woods, and woods don't really feel jarring, even with steel shafts.
    Nothing funny about graphite woods. Graphite is less consistent distance wise. It gives you an occasional jumper that flies about 20 further than normal. No problem with woods from the tee, even welcomed as objective is to hit as far as possible, but not so great with irons as 20 yards long usually means death over the back. Have heard new graphite are better but dont see too many guys on tour with them in the irons.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldplayer View Post
    FD I have been giving a set of Srixon Z star irons a try. They are forged pocket cavity GI irons. The topline, sole and offset are all very acceptable to my eye and the heads are midsizwe which I don't mind.
    Gotta say I am hitting some fantastic shots with these irons. They are easy to hit and inspire confidence that you can pull off the shot. They have stock nippon 1100 stiff in them and feel very good. The lofts are stupid strong however so I am playing the 4-pw as a 3-9 iron and have put a regular 47* pw in between the set and my 51 gap wedge. This combo is working great. I have shot 73,76, 78 and 74 (cap 4)since they have been in the bag.(And the 78 was in a howling gale with some rain and was one of my best rounds in years)
    I was eying those up prior to getting the MP58s last year. Nice looking club and they were going very cheap compared to other OEM forged players CB. Srixon are a very unheralded, underrated brand IMO.

    Glad you are enjoying them OP.
    I chose the road less traveled.

    Now where the f#ck am I?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Player View Post
    I was eying those up prior to getting the MP58s last year. Nice looking club and they were going very cheap compared to other OEM forged players CB. Srixon are a very unheralded, underrated brand IMO.

    Glad you are enjoying them OP.
    Thanks Kiwi. I agree that Srixon are underated. I did not like their predecesors however. I tried a set of i701 tours a few years ago and was not a fan. These however are completely different.
    Perhaps because they are often considered inferior to other OEM's they are not much in demand. I picked mine up on a whim and got a mint condition 7 club set for $190!! Even picked them up from a seller in Geelong West 5 minutes from my place.
    Some deals are just too hard to resist.
    Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldplayer View Post
    Thanks Kiwi. I agree that Srixon are underated. I did not like their predecesors however. I tried a set of i701 tours a few years ago and was not a fan. These however are completely different.
    Perhaps because they are often considered inferior to other OEM's they are not much in demand. I picked mine up on a whim and got a mint condition 7 club set for $190!! Even picked them up from a seller in Geelong West 5 minutes from my place.
    Some deals are just too hard to resist.
    LOL nice work OP.

    Definitely too hard to resist a deal like that.
    I chose the road less traveled.

    Now where the f#ck am I?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldplayer View Post
    FD I have been giving a set of Srixon Z star irons a try. They are forged pocket cavity GI irons. The topline, sole and offset are all very acceptable to my eye and the heads are midsizwe which I don't mind.
    Gotta say I am hitting some fantastic shots with these irons. They are easy to hit and inspire confidence that you can pull off the shot. They have stock nippon 1100 stiff in them and feel very good. The lofts are stupid strong however so I am playing the 4-pw as a 3-9 iron and have put a regular 47* pw in between the set and my 51 gap wedge. This combo is working great. I have shot 73,76, 78 and 74 (cap 4)since they have been in the bag.(And the 78 was in a howling gale with some rain and was one of my best rounds in years)
    Op I really like the Maxfli A10 tours you turned me onto, the highest rated irons in the review site. So I purchased a gorgeous set of Maxfli revolution 3-pw, gw, sw with my favorite shaft dynalite gold in s300 with new decade grips 180.00 I'm stoked and can't wait. If there a little easier to hit then the A10 and feel as good, there probably going to kick the comp ez out as my gamer set.
    Tm R9 420cc 9.5 Motore Tm R9 3 wood rip phenom, Titleist 909h 19* 24* voodoo, Scratch EZ-1 ds i80,steelfiber 3 or 4. 5-9 KBS, ds 47* jlm, pdg 53* ds 60* Odyssey Black 2 ball tour blade 33.5" Lethal

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 12sandwich View Post
    Op I really like the Maxfli A10 tours you turned me onto, the highest rated irons in the review site. So I purchased a gorgeous set of Maxfli revolution 3-pw, gw, sw with my favorite shaft dynalite gold in s300 with new decade grips 180.00 I'm stoked and can't wait. If there a little easier to hit then the A10 and feel as good, there probably going to kick the comp ez out as my gamer set.
    Dont want to pre empt anything but the revos are probably a little harder to hit than the A10. I had a set of revos once and they were a top shelf set of player cbs, but not as easy to hit as some. They were very similar in feel and performance to the 962, which was their main competition. I remember back in the day every low marker bagged either 962 or revo irons. Revos were big on tour too, nearly all maxfli staff players used them. It wasnt actually that long ago that Maxfli had loads of staff players on tour, or at least on the Oz tour. Allenby and Ogilvy played revo irons for years.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 12sandwich View Post
    Op I really like the Maxfli A10 tours you turned me onto, the highest rated irons in the review site. So I purchased a gorgeous set of Maxfli revolution 3-pw, gw, sw with my favorite shaft dynalite gold in s300 with new decade grips 180.00 I'm stoked and can't wait. If there a little easier to hit then the A10 and feel as good, there probably going to kick the comp ez out as my gamer set.
    Yes the A10's are certainly classics and easily make my top 5.
    Never hit the revo's. I know they are cast. I wonder if they have the nickel/chrome metallurgy of the A10's?
    Good luck with them, I hope they work out. Nothing better than a bit of bargain ho-ing.
    Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldplayer View Post
    Yes the A10's are certainly classics and easily make my top 5.
    Never hit the revo's. I know they are cast. I wonder if they have the nickel/chrome metallurgy of the A10's?
    Good luck with them, I hope they work out. Nothing better than a bit of bargain ho-ing.
    Revos had the multilayer nickle thing happening. They were the first of their irons made that way.
    The views expressed by Not a Hacker are not meant to be understood by you primitive screw heads. Don't take it personally, just sit back and enjoy the writings of your better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Player View Post
    For the past few years I have played the DG S300 in all my irons and when I'm playing well I love these shafts. I hit the ball with a nice high trajectory and with good distance. I've never been fitted for these shafts they just happened to be the shafts I played in all my "off the shelf" irons. When I first started playing them about 4-5 years ago after previously playing a lightweight (DG Dynalite?) shaft I did notice the extra weight but I got used to that pretty quickly.

    Anyway I have been curious to try other shafts such as the KBS Tour, PX etc and also thought that some of the new lightweight shafts might be better suited to me. Always looking for ways to make this game easier right? I thought that the Mizuno swing DNA shaft optimizer was the way to find out so I went along to a fitting whilst in Auckland on Tuesday.

    After hitting a few balls and getting all the readings etc the pro recommended a heavier stiff shaft versus some of the other lighter weight options. He said that a younger, stronger player is better off with a heavier shaft as you want to be able to "feel the weight of the shaft and the clubhead throughout the swing". So he selected the PX 5.0 or 5.5, the DG R or S300 and the KBS Tour Stiff. The KBS felt whippy and I seemed to hit it too high so it came down to the S300 vs the PX. I hit both equally well and don't think I would do significantly better or worse with either of these shafts.

    So long story short it turns out my gut feel was about right and there's no need to drop a tonne of cash buying new irons with fancy new shafts after all. The S300s will do just fine. That's what I thought but it's nice to have a fitting that confirms your gut instinct.

    So much for technology eh? Anybody else done this type of fitting? If so how was your experience?

    Found this on Youtube and it reminded me of my own fitting. Luke seems real impressed with the whole process doesn't he?

    "PX 5.0 or 5.5, the DG R or S300 and the KBS Tour Stiff. "

    This guy is a genius... why didn't he just suggest you tried every shaft ever made. One would be correct. The difference between PX5.0 and DGS300s is so big I think this clown knows ****!
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Not a hacker View Post
    Revos had the multilayer nickle thing happening. They were the first of their irons made that way.
    I understand the same, they have the nickel chrome casting, simply the best feeling non forged club I've hit. The review sight claims there easier to hit then the A 10 tour, which I found for there compact size very easy to hit.
    Tm R9 420cc 9.5 Motore Tm R9 3 wood rip phenom, Titleist 909h 19* 24* voodoo, Scratch EZ-1 ds i80,steelfiber 3 or 4. 5-9 KBS, ds 47* jlm, pdg 53* ds 60* Odyssey Black 2 ball tour blade 33.5" Lethal

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pottsy View Post
    "PX 5.0 or 5.5, the DG R or S300 and the KBS Tour Stiff. "

    This guy is a genius... why didn't he just suggest you tried every shaft ever made. One would be correct. The difference between PX5.0 and DGS300s is so big I think this clown knows ****!
    He was just steering me towards the heavier PX or DG shaft and saying I was on the cusp of either stiff or regular shaft i.e. PX 5.0 or 5.5 or DG R300 or S300.

    He was basically steering me away from the lighter DG XL, SL, Dynalite etc

    Not exactly rocket science.
    I chose the road less traveled.

    Now where the f#ck am I?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Player View Post
    He was just steering me towards the heavier PX or DG shaft and saying I was on the cusp of either stiff or regular shaft i.e. PX 5.0 or 5.5 or DG R300 or S300.

    He was basically steering me away from the lighter DG XL, SL, Dynalite etc

    Not exactly rocket science.
    If I remember you were playing s400 in your old set of Mizunos?
    Tm R9 420cc 9.5 Motore Tm R9 3 wood rip phenom, Titleist 909h 19* 24* voodoo, Scratch EZ-1 ds i80,steelfiber 3 or 4. 5-9 KBS, ds 47* jlm, pdg 53* ds 60* Odyssey Black 2 ball tour blade 33.5" Lethal

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    Quote Originally Posted by 12sandwich View Post
    If I remember you were playing s400 in your old set of Mizunos?
    I was playing S300 in my old Taylormade R7 Tp then bought a mixed set of MP30 3-5 and MP33 6-PW that had the S400. Since then I have added the Z101, MP32 and MP58 all with DG S300.

    The S400 whilst slightly heavier played pretty similar to the S300.
    I chose the road less traveled.

    Now where the f#ck am I?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldplayer View Post
    Yes the A10's are certainly classics and easily make my top 5.
    Never hit the revo's. I know they are cast. I wonder if they have the nickel/chrome metallurgy of the A10's?
    Good luck with them, I hope they work out. Nothing better than a bit of bargain ho-ing.
    Thanks! Have fun with the Srixons There a nice looking iron.
    Tm R9 420cc 9.5 Motore Tm R9 3 wood rip phenom, Titleist 909h 19* 24* voodoo, Scratch EZ-1 ds i80,steelfiber 3 or 4. 5-9 KBS, ds 47* jlm, pdg 53* ds 60* Odyssey Black 2 ball tour blade 33.5" Lethal

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