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  1. #1
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    What swingweight?

    I am currently playing with Nike Pro Combo Irons, Rifle 6.0 shafts and a midsize Lamkin grip.
    I used onr of the Free swingweight calculators and they estimate them to be D0.
    I hit them consistantly, out of 10 shots; 7 straight and 3 right (about 6 yards at 125 yards).
    I also have a 17 degree utility club. I measured this on the same calulator and it came out at C5. I hit this club very well out of 10 shots; 9 straight and 1 right (only 4 yards right at 125 yards). This club feels great, the irons require effort, my driver (10.5 degree) is between the two at C7 and the results are between the two.
    I don't know my exact swing speed. But I hit my 5 iron 175 yards (carry only) with a easy swing, my utility club I swing faster (no more effort due to the lower swingweight) and it goes about 220 yards (carry). Not sure about the driver distance, approx. 240 yards
    I have a highish ball flight (which I am ok with)
    Question: Should I change the swingweight of my irons/Driver to C5?
    any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    I'm not sure changing swingweight will solve your problems - it really affects distance antrajectory somewhat - it really what repressents how easy it is for yout o swing the club, especially at the beginning of the down swing ( how heavy the club feels).

    change it to F39 if you think it will make you feel better.....

    just kidding - if you're hitting your 5 iron 175 with an easy swing, you're on average or maybe slightly above ( people always brag about more, but in reality there are some long hitters, but not as many as claimed) - the statistical average for swingweight for the average build and size person is D2-D4 i think.

    this may not answer your question ( i don't know the answer) but should provide some information for you....

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply.
    I used to hit the ball a lot longer, but that was with a very wristy action and not very consistant (I was playing to 22 handicap)
    I am a lot more consistant now (about 10) and improving.
    The club does feel a bit heavy at the start of the downswing
    Do you think the overall weight of the club is a big factor?
    I hit all of my irons (470 gramms) with the same consistancy.
    But the lighter utility club (graphite shaft) is more accuarate.

  4. #4
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    Two things happen as you increase swingweight, all other things being equal:

    The club feels heavier swinging, more resistant to the torque your hands apply during the swing.

    The clubhead travels slower at impact, since the torque you're applying doesn't accelerate the club as much.

    Remember that you want to maximize clubhead speed when designing our club, in order to maximize distance. Thus we come to the following rough rules of thumb for choosing a swingweight:

    Find the range (avg D0) of swingweight for which your swing feels comfortable and, more important, controlled and repeatable.

    Build the clubs for the lower end of that range, so you get the best distance out of the club. Also, it is not unusual to find swingweight increasing slightly as the clubs get shorter.

    Swingspeed and distance: For a driver divide the carry distance by 2.4 to get an approximate swingspeed or multiply the swingspeed by 2.4 to get an approximate carry distance. With irons use 2.2. All in all it works pretty well.
    [COLOR=DarkRed][FONT=Tahoma][I]I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was![/I][/FONT][/COLOR]

  5. #5
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    thanks Thomas.
    The Driver calculation seems straight forward. 240 yard carry = 100mph. Is that for a 10.5 degree driver?
    I don't follow the iron calculation, is that for a 3 iron?
    I have some old clubs, I might experiment using some wieght on the grip end of the club.

  6. #6
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    Remember this is just a rough estimate, driver loft will affect it some, but this formula will get you close. Remember, in order for you to hit a lower lofted club an equal distance, the swing speed must increase. The formula works for any iron also.

    Driver loft has a major influence on overall driving distance but not because of what you logically would expect. Most golfers think that a loft decrease will increase driver distance. Today however, the greatest distance gains are usually made by golfers who switch from a lower lofted to a higher lofted driver. The incredible advances ball manufacturers have made in keeping the ball aloft are circumvented by many golfers who have purchased drivers with 7, 8 or 9 degree lofts that send the ball on a trajectory that is too flat, thus robbing the golfer of potential distance. The ideal trajectory for the average golfer is one that is shaped like a parabola rather than a flat line.

    Think of watering your lawn with a garden hose. Hold it straight out and it doesn't go as far as when you aim it up a little. It could if you increased the pressure (i.e.swingspeed)
    [COLOR=DarkRed][FONT=Tahoma][I]I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was![/I][/FONT][/COLOR]

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by graham43
    Thanks for the reply.
    I used to hit the ball a lot longer, but that was with a very wristy action and not very consistant (I was playing to 22 handicap)
    I am a lot more consistant now (about 10) and improving.
    The club does feel a bit heavy at the start of the downswing
    Do you think the overall weight of the club is a big factor?
    I hit all of my irons (470 gramms) with the same consistancy.
    But the lighter utility club (graphite shaft) is more accuarate.
    this reminds me of myself - i used to hit alot further, now i hit an average 250 yards ( which I 'd like to improve a little), and my irons aren't long enough, but i score much better than before.

    i don't think the utility clubs weight is an issue - it's an issue of adapting a slightly different swing? or more confidence.... at your level of play, a wood is easier to hit than a long iron, but salvation lies within mastering long iron play rather than woods....

    work on your long irons if you are about 10 - even if you don't hit them as well as the utility, consider how much less you get into trouble ( even on a mediocre shot).... it all adds up!

    my philosophy in golf (i'm quoting somebody, palmer i think), is that a perfect shot does not exist, score depends on how good your bad shots are.

    maybe you'd be better off getting new irons, with a different feel, this should generate new sensations and new motivation to adjust your swing...?

  8. #8
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    Graham...what irons to you have that weigh 470 grams? A lob wedge is heaviest at just under 300 grams, add 100 for the shaft and 50 for the grip and you barely get there. Everything else has to be lighter.
    [COLOR=DarkRed][FONT=Tahoma][I]I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was![/I][/FONT][/COLOR]

  9. #9
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    I wasn't sure if I was Missing something obvious and figured someone had probably been down this path before. I read on a website that the iron speed should be about 80% of the driver speed. That in a round about way answered my question, one of the replies sent me down path of enlightenment, By the way PW 470 gramms, 3 iron 435 gramms, 17 degree utility 368 gramms, Driver 331 gramms.
    Thanks to everyone that replied

  10. #10
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    Do you have those clubs hosel weighted? What is the weight of your shafts? They are awful heavy clubs.
    [COLOR=DarkRed][FONT=Tahoma][I]I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was![/I][/FONT][/COLOR]

  11. #11
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    Nike Pro Combo
    rifle 6.0 shafts
    Lamkin midsize grips

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