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  1. #1
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    Distance loss: Driver vs. 3 Wood

    I vowed to not make as many mistakes off the tee in 2006 than I did in 2005. My driver is a nice Callaway 454 but I find that when I use it 10 or 12 times per round, I slice it about 50% of the time. I am considering using a 3 wood off the tee when there are hazards that can potentially add some penalty strokes.

    Anyways, how much distance do ya'll think I would lose between a 10.5 degree driver and a strong 13 degree 3 wood? I know distances are kind of irrelevant but it can't hurt to ask

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nacho_D/FW
    I vowed to not make as many mistakes off the tee in 2006 than I did in 2005. My driver is a nice Callaway 454 but I find that when I use it 10 or 12 times per round, I slice it about 50% of the time. I am considering using a 3 wood off the tee when there are hazards that can potentially add some penalty strokes.

    Anyways, how much distance do ya'll think I would lose between a 10.5 degree driver and a strong 13 degree 3 wood? I know distances are kind of irrelevant but it can't hurt to ask

    I would think you would not loose any more than say 40 yards, but accuracy should be paramount here. If you slicing 50% of your drives, perhaps consider a taylormade r5 type d, or have lessons. But im sure 9 from 10 people here would choose accuracy over distance. Its no fun playing from o.b, 3 from the tee, or thick rough.


    TOM
    "1 PUTTS PREFFERED!"

  3. #3
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    Hi Ghost. Figure out the driver.
    I personally carry the ball only a few yards further with my driver, but since it's on a lower trajectory, it rolls out about 20 yards more. When it's really wet out, the distances between my 3 and driver are negligible.

  4. #4
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    I think that drivers are not the most difficult club to hit thesedays. Everybody can develop a swing decent enough to decently hit a driver, and if not, they can't hit a three wood much better.

    Take some time to master your driver. Get the extra 20-40 yards.

    You don't have to hit it hard. Deevelop trust and confidence and you will imporve your scores. By backing off, refusing it and hitting your 3 wood instead, you will take 3 times longer to hit your driver decently.

    Practice will improve your ratio, your driver should be a frien and not your most important club in your bag - it's just there to ensure a decent ball in play!

  5. #5
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    Take note...

    Quote Originally Posted by Nacho_D/FW
    I vowed to not make as many mistakes off the tee in 2006 than I did in 2005. My driver is a nice Callaway 454 but I find that when I use it 10 or 12 times per round, I slice it about 50% of the time. I am considering using a 3 wood off the tee when there are hazards that can potentially add some penalty strokes.

    Anyways, how much distance do ya'll think I would lose between a 10.5 degree driver and a strong 13 degree 3 wood? I know distances are kind of irrelevant but it can't hurt to ask
    that the kind of situation you describe(using a 3 wood when a hazard comes into driver range play) is a classic "risk/reward" situation. Also take note that the pros, when in certain situations(one being the driver not quite reliable) also take a club that will help avoid a hazard. It's called "course management" and can save you a ton of strokes. I play with some darned good golfers that refuse to back off from using their driver and I beat them most of the time. It's not always about hitting it further. And you're correct about the distance you might lose. You should already know that by going to the range.

  6. #6
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    I used to slice to ball about 50% of the time also and my friends told me to be smarter and use my 3-wood more. i didn't really want to so i stayed using my driver on difficult holes. I have gotten a lot more accurate with my driver and now i am blasting them down the fairway. i agree with philfrance you should stick with the driver and you will benefeit from it in the long run

  7. #7
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    I lose 25 yards between a 10* driver and a 13* 3wood. Although with the bigger club face of the driver I am actually more consistent with the driver. If I opt to play it safe, I usually go for the 5 wood, which is only 15 yards shorter than the 3wood and and much more reliable than the 3w or Driver.

    If I am "playing it safe", I do not consider my 3w safe compared to my driver, just less distance. My 5w is safe usually. Although I also consider how close I want to be and the hazards of the hole. It may be much less than a 5w while playing safe.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by philfrance
    I think that drivers are not the most difficult club to hit thesedays. Everybody can develop a swing decent enough to decently hit a driver, and if not, they can't hit a three wood much better.

    Take some time to master your driver. Get the extra 20-40 yards.

    You don't have to hit it hard. Deevelop trust and confidence and you will imporve your scores. By backing off, refusing it and hitting your 3 wood instead, you will take 3 times longer to hit your driver decently.

    Practice will improve your ratio, your driver should be a frien and not your most important club in your bag - it's just there to ensure a decent ball in play!

    I think the biggest factor in hitting the driver is being able to close the clubface prior to impact. I will use a little stronger grip on my driver to insure that the clubface is closed. If I don't I tend to fade the ball or even slice. In terms how hard I swing I tend to think "Swing smooth" instead of swing hard. If you put a decent swing on a good quality driver and hit the sweet part the club will get the job done in terms of distance.

  9. #9
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    I assume that you are opting for the strong 3 wood to minimise distance loss over the driver. However I would suggest if your handicap is over 12 you would be doing yourself a favour by opting for the more traditinonal 15 degree 3 wood. A strong 3 (known a number of years ago as a 2 wood) is still a fairly demanding club to hit. My personal view is that the object of hitting a 3 wood is to get as much forgiveness as possible. The 15 degree 3 wood will do this for you.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbomber9
    I used to slice to ball about 50% of the time also and my friends told me to be smarter and use my 3-wood more. i didn't really want to so i stayed using my driver on difficult holes. I have gotten a lot more accurate with my driver and now i am blasting them down the fairway. i agree with philfrance you should stick with the driver and you will benefeit from it in the long run

    You bring up an interesting issue which is: How low do you want your scores to be now versus how good a ball striker do you want to become later? In my mind the only way to improve your ball striking with any particular club is to practice and use that club until you become profecient and confident with it. In the short term that may mean higher scores when you play until you are swinging a particular club well. But I'm strongly of the opinion it's the price you have to pay in order to improve your game long term. Right now, I'm very inconsistent with my fairway woods off the deck. But when I play ana a shot calls for them I will pull them out and hit them. I know at some point with some work and time I'm going to start hitting these clubs more consistently.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by A V Twiss
    I assume that you are opting for the strong 3 wood to minimise distance loss over the driver. However I would suggest if your handicap is over 12 you would be doing yourself a favour by opting for the more traditinonal 15 degree 3 wood. A strong 3 (known a number of years ago as a 2 wood) is still a fairly demanding club to hit. My personal view is that the object of hitting a 3 wood is to get as much forgiveness as possible. The 15 degree 3 wood will do this for you.
    I went as far as to give up on three woods altogether I just carry a 17* fore wood which is about 15 to 20 yards shorter than the driver on average, much straighter and a lot easier to hit off the deck than the three wood it replaced.

  12. #12
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    According to studies done, if you hit your driver properly, and you hit the 3-wood properly, also, you'll hit your 3-wood about 85% as far as your driver. So, if you hit your driver 250 yds, then you should hit your 3-wood about 215 yards or so. Of course, you've got a 'strong 3', so your yardage loss would be smaller, probably 10% or less.

    Of course, you said you slice your driver. That takes some distance off it. Also, if you're slicing, you're extending the distance from the tee by being off course, so to speak. So the driver may go 230 yds into the rough, and be another 180 true yards from the hole, while the 3-wood in the middle of the fairway may have only traveled 215 yards, but is also only 170 yards from the hole.

    My bet is that you'd probably hit a nice smooth shot with your 3-wood 95% as far, or more, as your driver, but that you'd be in the fairway, not in the rough or OB.

    It all depends on your particular swing. I've got a friend who hits his driver about 220 yards or so with a slice guaranteed to take the ball into the rough. He hits his 3-wood about 250-260 with only a slight fade. Needless to say, he wisely plays his 3-wood almost all the time.

    As for the suggestions to play your driver in order to master it - that's what driving ranges are for, to learn how to control your clubs. Play the 3-wood on the course, and practice with the driver on the driving range until you can control it. Don't even put it in your bag when you play...

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