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Thread: Long Irons

  1. #1
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    Long Irons

    I was told today that when swinging your long irons you take a wider arc and you don't hit down on the ball. I was wondering does the definition of a long iron stop at your four or five iron. just wondering

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dant
    I was told today that when swinging your long irons you take a wider arc and you don't hit down on the ball. I was wondering does the definition of a long iron stop at your four or five iron. just wondering
    I believe so.

    On the subject of hitting down the ball, I am one of those who believe you must hit down on the ball to generate backspin to lift the ball up in the air. I am not talking about hitting it steep. You can still shallow out and hit down on the ball at the same time.

    Trying to sweep or help the ball up with the long iron introduces the risks of hitting fat shots.

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    I'm going to take the opposite point of view on this one. I am a strong long iron player and love hitting my 3 and 4 iron. I play my long irons just like I my fairway wood. I play it a little further forward in my stance and sweep the ball much like I do my 3 wood. I take a very small divot which is more like trimming the grass than getting down to the dirt beneath. I am able to get very good height on my long irons this way and rarely hit them heavy.

    My mishits are thinned shots which still go very straight they just don't get the height that my normal shots do. I'm a high ball hitter so in most cases my mishits look like everyone else's normal shot. Kind of funny when someone says nice shot when I know I thinned it a bit.

    Big key with long irons as with woods/driver.....swing with a smooth tempo and your results will be MUCH improved. You can get away with getting quick on short and some mid iron shots. Long irons require a more solid strike and a smooth tempo will help get that for you.

    One other piec of advice I liek which will help ingrain that sweeping motion is to begin by hitting your long irons off a tee. Then once you get comfortable and are making good, solid contact, lower the tee a bit until you finally have the ball on the ground. This game is so much about confidence so take your time and be patient.

    One last word, to be successful with your long sticks you need three things: confidence, swing speed and good solid swing mechanics. If it isn't happening for you, don't be stubborn. Get a hybrid. I carry a 17* to gap my 3 iron and 3 wood. VERY easy to hit.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by Dan the Man; 03-10-2006 at 02:06 PM.

  4. #4
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    Still wondering

    But at what iron does it stop being considered a long iron 4 or 5

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    I think that would depend on the individual. Personally, I look at long irons as 1, 2, and 3. I know most would consider the 4 a long iron, but I think it is the easiest club in the bag to hit. Oddly, I cannot get a 3 iron to do anything good unless teed up. I carry an 18* and 21* hybrid, no f-woods, 4 up in irons, and 4 wedges...should give you some idea of what clus I prefer hitting. I hit my 4 iron from mid stance, and I don't take much divot with any iron, let alone the 4. Some others are less comfortable hitting the 5 or 4, so they would consider it long. I didn't even carry the 3 or 4 iron in my bag two summers ago, using the 5 as the lowest iron. Since switching to a better set for my swing, I wouldn't part with my 4. Some guys - even mid handicappers, like hitting a 2 iron. I think that is nuts, but it works for them. I guess you should try to isolate the lowest iron you can hit confidently and then look for options for longer stuff...unless you want to use them to practice - I'd love to get a 1 or 2 iron to fool around with at the range.

    Just to add to this, most of the combo sets out have the blades starting around the 7 iron, and 6 down as cavity backs - maybe their suggestion of what constitutes a long iron.
    I can't wait for shore leave so I can get me som fukkin' poon-tang.

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    You can still hit down on the ball. Just ask Lanny Wadkins and there are others. It's not easy though. I only hit down slightly with my long irons. It's all up to you.

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    I always hit down, i also have a fairly steep swing, so u can guess my mishits are usually fat (or skied shots w/ woods). but even with my 3 iron i hit down a fair bit, well when its working im hitting down on it
    I feel sorry for Skeet boy's cat...

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    Wider arc's are a function of the clubs shaft length, not how you swing. Long irons are an absolute joy to hit. I do not carry hybrids, not necessarry. Spend more time on the range and get a good repeatable swing and it wont matter what club is in your hand, you'll stripe all of them crisply.

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    There are obviously different schools of thought on the subject. My pro told me to take a more sweeping, fairway wood swing on the longer irons. You certainly don't want to hit UP on them or try to lift the ball; that's a ticket to problems. But since all golf swings are inherently curved, you simply position the ball so that the ball is struck at the lowest part of the swing; at the end of the downswing and before you start up at the end. The loft on the club will impart the spin and trajectory to lift the ball; the ball doesn't need any other help to get up in the air.
    Seldom right, never in doubt......

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    interesting

    Quote Originally Posted by dorkman53
    There are obviously different schools of thought on the subject. My pro told me to take a more sweeping, fairway wood swing on the longer irons. You certainly don't want to hit UP on them or try to lift the ball; that's a ticket to problems. But since all golf swings are inherently curved, you simply position the ball so that the ball is struck at the lowest part of the swing; at the end of the downswing and before you start up at the end. The loft on the club will impart the spin and trajectory to lift the ball; the ball doesn't need any other help to get up in the air.

    a question;

    during which part of the swing or its apex does shaft deflection (kick) or trq come into play? (ref loft and spin).. or is that different?

    can you manipulate the actual release of the shaft (kick)?

    thank you in advance

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