Curious about Driver angles - 9* vs 10* vs 11*

[chemboy2]

Hey gang,

Newbie here with a question.

I'm looking into getting a new driver and am curious to the differences in face angles. Is there guidelines for deciding which angle is best for a given individual or is it purely a personal feel type thing?

Please note, I do realize that y'all don't know what kind of golfer I am so I'm not asking what is best for me personally; I'm just asking what type of golfers do better with which angles (eg. high/low club head speed, high/low handicapper, etc).

I hope that all made sense, thanks in advance!

[Bravo35223]

Ok - I always start with generalities and then work down from there.

BTW - these are not called angles. They are called LOFTS. While I DO realize that there is indeed an angle involved - it's just not called that. So, when you're drinking a beer after your round, you'll look a little more informed if you say, "Hey what loft do you have on your driver?" vs. "What angle do you have?" Because there is also a term called face angle which means something different....If you want to ask about that too - we'll help you out...

Here we go...

1) The Higher the loft - as a generality - the more forgiving and straighter - the ball will go.

2) The Lower the loft - generally - the ball will go somewhat farther because the ball does not fly as high.

It is recommended for beginners that they stay with the higher lofts because you need as much help hitting it straight as you can. On the other hand, the current design of drivers out there now (if you have or are considering a late model) tend to hit the ball plenty high. So a 9.5 degree driver tends to get the ball plenty up in the air.

Is this helpful?

Tell us about how long you have been playing, How often you play, what you usually score and the driver you have now and are considering acquiring.

This always help us frame up the best advice...

[dorkman53]

While it is true that a higher loft is more forgiving than a lower loft, it is not necessarily true that a lower loft will travel farther. Quite the opposite can be true. For a person's swing speed and particular shaft, a higher loft may deliver more distance, not less.
It is important to demo different brands, lofts, shafts, and any other parameter of interest before buying whenever possible. Often people gripe about a purchase of a driver, but never did a real demo on it. Hitting into a net at the store is a poor substitute for actual driving range use. A simulator is a reasonable alternative, but just hitting into a net tells you basically nothing except how soft the tip of the shaft is.

[Bravo35223]

While it is true that a higher loft is more forgiving than a lower loft, it is not necessarily true that a lower loft will travel farther. Quite the opposite can be true. For a person's swing speed and particular shaft, a higher loft may deliver more distance, not less.
It is important to demo different brands, lofts, shafts, and any other parameter of interest before buying whenever possible. Often people gripe about a purchase of a driver, but never did a real demo on it. Hitting into a net at the store is a poor substitute for actual driving range use. A simulator is a reasonable alternative, but just hitting into a net tells you basically nothing except how soft the tip of the shaft is.

True - this is why I called them generalities. I am hoping he'll get the higher loft (more forgiving/straighter club)....

[henderss]

I am a 10 handicap with about a 90-95mph swing speed and find a 11.5 degree works great. It will also depend on the club and shaft though as I have a 975D stiff graphite with a lower, boring trajectory. With a regular flex shaft and high launch titanium driver like the Nike or Cobra I'd probably do better with 9.5-10.5.
Overall I think more amateurs should settle for 10.5 or more and get some consistency, I doubt too many would lose any distance either. As always though... try before you buy.

[chemboy2]

Thanks Bravo. That's exactly the kind of information I was looking for.

Loft not angle, got it. ;)

So a little background about me. I've been playing golf for almost five years now, however, I played for two years and then took a two year hiatus, and it is only been in the last nine months that I've come back to the game. Pre-break I was playing two to three times a week and had gotten my scores consistently down to the low 90s and even into the 80s on a couple of ocassions. Coming back after the break was almost like starting over again. It took several weeks at the driving range before I felt my old swing return.

Lately I've been working at the range and on short game practice areas (twice a week) and will venture out onto a local 9-hole course two to three times a month to check up on my real world improvement. The good news is that I'm almost back to where I was before I left only I have a better understanding of what the hell I'm doing. Kudos to the Golf Channel there!

Anyway, my current driver is a titanium 300cc 10.5* Big Bertha knock-off. In the quest for a new driver price is still a concern. All my other woods are Adams Tight Lies and I like them very much so I'm looking at the Tight Lies GT driver. I was able to test it out on one of those simulators the other night and was quite pleased. While I was there I did take the opportunity to hit the new Callaway ERC (?) as well as a few others. I was pleased to see no difference in the results. I'm pleased because the Adams driver is currently 1/3 - 1/4 the price of the other drivers I was hitting. FWIW, the computer had my swing speed averaging 87mph. I thought the 10* gave me better results than the 9* and I plan on trying the 11* today at lunch.

-Rob

[mike 34]

Sounds like you are in the ball park with lofts. I hit 110 mph, with extra stiff Ping Si3 at 8 degrees of loft. I tend to fly the ball in the air about 250-260 and when I am hitting well up to 270-280. Since I hit the ball pretty high (6 foot 4) and with a decent amount of speed, the extra stiff and fairly low loft help me get what I call a "controllable" trajectory. For example, if the wind is in my face, I am not worried about too much loft ballooning the ball and taking off a bunch of distance. Also, "steering" the ball is a little easier in my opinion. Hitting a slight to moderate draw or power fade with bore-ing, "controllable" and "roll producing", trajectory is what I am aiming for with my driver. Although I am not getting as much roll as I want, however I am starting to think that the fairly thickish and soft fairways at my home course are keeping me from getting much roll. I see the pros hit, and sometimes their ball just bounces hard and rolls for 50-70 yards at times. I am starting to think it is the type of fairway and general conditions, and of course their skill level as well.

So I guess finding the shaft and loft that helps you get distance but with a "controllable" trajectory is my vote. And something that does not balloon too much and have too much back spin. These can be also be controlled with shaft type and ball type as well

[Bravo35223]

Rob:

Your tracking pretty well so far. Trying out the clubs on a machine is a good first step. And if you feel that getting a driver that matches your fairway woods gives you confidence then that is important. Golf is mental and confidence is critical to good scores.

Just some generalities for you here:

1) Drivers are introduced very often now by the manufacturers. If you went back 15 years ago, they might introduce a new one every three years or so. Now, there's a new one every year or so. Yes they are much more expensive (even adjusted for inflation) but the good news is that these rapid introductions mean that with some good research and bargain hunting on your part - you can get a great piece of equipment for a reasonable amount of $$.

Here's an example. The TaylorMade R500 Series of drivers are very popular. They were originally introduced in the 2002 model year. Sold very well and were well regarded. Price tag was $400. Then about 15-18 months later, TaylorMade introduced the R500 XD Series - a slighly modified form of the original R500. These were introduced in the past few months, and when they hit the market, prices on the regular R500's dropped by about 50-60%. You can get a new R500 on the internet for about $170ish and a slightly used one for about $125 and its a super golf club. The driver market is similar to the auto market. Every year we'll change the grill and headlights a little and make everyone desire the new product. We all know that a 15 month old car cost much much less than a brand new one.

This same phenomenon is out there for the Titleist Drivers too. The 975's are super and their prices have dropped a bunch since the big brother 983's have come out.

What I am saying here is, even though you like the Adams drivers - you should know that your choices are quite wide when it comes to buying a new(er) driver and staying within a reasonable budget.

It is very common for golfers to have fairway woods made by one manufacturer and driver by another - so keep your options open if you don't necessarily want the Adams.

2) Used clubs. Keep this in your option bag too. One of the manifestations of the Driver Craze is tons and tons of slightly used clubs available at local pro shops, on eBay and other on-line internet retailers.

3) Keep doing what you are doing. That is, TRY the clubs before you buy them. This past winter, I decided to try some new fairway woods. I went to a retailer that would lend me demo equipment for a WEEK. Then took the clubs to the range and played a round or two with them. This is the best way to evaluate - on the course under actual playing conditions.

YOU are doing very well and your scoring is good for someone of so little experience. I'd suggest spending some $$ on lessons now. Since you have been away from the game for awhile, you have an opportunity to learn new, good habits...

[henderss]

Lots of sound advice... I would also recommend the Taylor Made 320Ti with a regular flex and 10.5 degrees as a nice forgiving driver (very good value second hand) or if you have more $$$ then the Cobra SS or SZ series. Both get very good distance

[chemboy2]

I hear you about used clubs and the mental side of golf.

When I first got my clubs I purchased a Tight Lies 5 wood. I don't know what it was about that club but I hit it better than anything in my bag. Whenever I start to feel like I'm losing my swing I head to the range with that club. That club alone does wonders for my confidence.

With that being said, I decided earlier this year that I wanted to get a 3 wood and a 7 wood. I went straight to eBay and searched the Tight Lies selection. I picked up both clubs 60 bucks total and have been extremely happy with these clubs as they have filled holes in my game.

I understand that an eclectic mix of what's best for the individual is really the best way to go, however, I have a funny quirk were I like everything to match. For example, I give my wife a hard time everytime she wears Nike socks with her New Balance running because you just don't do that. I do realize that it makes no difference butI just can't get past it. At times this is a major personality flaw(see example ;) ) but it's something that I've just come to live with, luckily so has my wife.

Along the same lines, I tend to be very brand loyal (in all aspects of my purchasing habits). I'm headed out at lunch today to try the drivers again and this time I'll look into the possiblity of taking a demo out the door to try in the real world before I buy.

As for lessons, isn't May free lesson month?

-Rob

[Bravo35223]

I hear you about used clubs and the mental side of golf.

When I first got my clubs I purchased a Tight Lies 5 wood. I don't know what it was about that club but I hit it better than anything in my bag. Whenever I start to feel like I'm losing my swing I head to the range with that club. That club alone does wonders for my confidence.

With that being said, I decided earlier this year that I wanted to get a 3 wood and a 7 wood. I went straight to eBay and searched the Tight Lies selection. I picked up both clubs 60 bucks total and have been extremely happy with these clubs as they have filled holes in my game.

I understand that an eclectic mix of what's best for the individual is really the best way to go, however, I have a funny quirk were I like everything to match. For example, I give my wife a hard time everytime she wears Nike socks with her New Balance running because you just don't do that. I do realize that it makes no difference butI just can't get past it. At times this is a major personality flaw(see example ;) ) but it's something that I've just come to live with, luckily so has my wife.

Along the same lines, I tend to be very brand loyal (in all aspects of my purchasing habits). I'm headed out at lunch today to try the drivers again and this time I'll look into the possiblity of taking a demo out the door to try in the real world before I buy.

As for lessons, isn't May free lesson month?

-Rob

Looking good. The good news is that Adams is a respected maker of equipment. And if you really like matching stuff then go all the way. Find out what kind of shafts you have on your fairway woods. They are likely the stock shafts so you'll want to find out if they are regular or stiff (could also be senior or 2X stiff or more for that matter).

Then, get the same shaft in your Adams driver that you have in your fairway woods. If consistency and matching are your game - then getting the same shafts makes sense...