Yes, I am that moron wrestling on the tee box with himself.
I hit a consistent fade drive, not such a fade on irons or hybrids.
I don't really like to admit this, given it is true idiocy on my part, but damn, I have been unaccepting of my fade, and constantly want to challenge the right side with a hopeful, drawed drive. Alas, I am always surprised by the ball not being in the fairway, offering still further proof of my dolty poopy faced stupidity.
How much fade we talking? If it's truly a power fade, you're not plagued, you're gifted. My ball flight with a driver is a slight draw (5 yards maybe) most of the time but some days when I'm driving poorly, I might snap off a couple. Playing your second shot from far away out of the s.hit isn't exactly my favorite thing.
If your path is ok then you might have too much tension. When you swing, if you're heterosexual, try pretending you're shaking hands with a hot chick and you're trying to get her aroused. If you're a homosexual, maybe approach it as though you're the pitcher and the other guy is the catcher, not that there's anything wrong with that.
If you're tension level is ok, then it's probably your path. In that case take the club back as far as you can to the outside which will force the club more inside on the through swing.
Yes, I am that moron wrestling on the tee box with himself.
I hit a consistent fade drive, not such a fade on irons or hybrids.
I don't really like to admit this, given it is true idiocy on my part, but damn, I have been unaccepting of my fade, and constantly want to challenge the right side with a hopeful, drawed drive. Alas, I am always surprised by the ball not being in the fairway, offering still further proof of my dolty poopy faced stupidity.
can youse pro types help me?
thanks cholos
signed,
poopy faced driver
Get another driver. One or more degrees more loft than the one you game. Make sure the shaft is one flex more soft and has at least one or more degrees of torque. Tee the ball higher than normal. Play the ball forward at least even with your forward arm pit and maybe off your front toe. Ensure that you make a complete back swing with you back facing the target. Start your forward swing with a rotation of your right hip out to your front and not around your spine. Try to swing to the right of your target line 10-20 degrees like you are hitting a baseball right-handed and are trying to drive it over the second baseman's head. Make a complete turn through with your chest facing at or slightly left of the target. If this does not work, there's alway tennis.
More specifically, get the Titleist 976R with EI-70. It never goes left or right, only straight. It goes so straight your playing partners start telling you how "boring" your game is. Now if I can just figure out how to stop a wedge.
More specifically, get the Titleist 976R with EI-70. It never goes left or right, only straight. It goes so straight your playing partners start telling you how "boring" your game is. Now if I can just figure out how to stop a wedge.
Now that you mention it, he might want to get his hands on a
983K with almost any of the shafts offered. Guaranteed to hook in any loft higher than 8.5*, but the YS-6 is hook-money.
I am trying to embrace the fade. For many years my natural shape was a draw but my bad shots were either snap hooks or, more frequently a push. Both have a high disaster quotient for me as the course I play is tree lined. Once you are in the trees you can basically forget scoring par. I would be very pleased if I could aim down the left hand side of the fairway and be confident that the ball would turn gently right to the middle or just right of centre. It is quite significant that over the years the best golfers in the world (Hogan, Nicklaus, Trevino, Palmer) hall hit a fade as their stock shot. Colin Montgomery, 8 times European No 1 was considered once of the most accurate players in Europe for many years played with a fade. Truly the fade is your friend.
I think someone that hooks the ball naturally without trying has the best starter golf swing.becuase it is easier to fade a ball then to hook it. So one only has to try and change the grip to compensate for the hook and soon you will be hitting controlled draws without the possibility of a fade....I like that idea.
----------------------------------------------------
"The statement below is true.
The statement above is false"
How much fade we talking? If it's truly a power fade, you're not plagued, you're gifted. My ball flight with a driver is a slight draw (5 yards maybe) most of the time but some days when I'm driving poorly, I might snap off a couple. Playing your second shot from far away out of the s.hit isn't exactly my favorite thing.
If your path is ok then you might have too much tension. When you swing, if you're heterosexual, try pretending you're shaking hands with a hot chick and you're trying to get her aroused. If you're a homosexual, maybe approach it as though you're the pitcher and the other guy is the catcher, not that there's anything wrong with that.
If you're tension level is ok, then it's probably your path. In that case take the club back as far as you can to the outside which will force the club more inside on the through swing.
And welcome to GR.
That's a misconception a lot of players have. A shot that curves only 5 yards from right to left (for a right-handed golfer) is a straight shot. The 5 yard "draw" is simply the result of the natural inside/out swing plane of someone that is right-handed. Anything more than that and you could call it a draw.
This thread is a complete joke because no golfer who shoots in the 90's possesses a "power fade". Hitting that shot with a driver takes a lot of skill and solid fundamentals. The biggest problem with attempting a power fade is the tendency to push it right, almost always ending up in severe trouble.
That's a misconception a lot of players have. A shot that curves only 5 yards from right to left (for a right-handed golfer) is a straight shot. The 5 yard "draw" is simply the result of the natural inside/out swing plane of someone that is right-handed. Anything more than that and you could call it a draw.
This thread is a complete joke because no golfer who shoots in the 90's possesses a "power fade". Hitting that shot with a driver takes a lot of skill and solid fundamentals. The biggest problem with attempting a power fade is the tendency to push it right, almost always ending up in severe trouble.
You've fallen into your fictional fantasy again. Everything you typed there is completely untrue. The weekend's over, put down the joint.
That's a misconception a lot of players have. A shot that curves only 5 yards from right to left (for a right-handed golfer) is a straight shot. The 5 yard "draw" is simply the result of the natural inside/out swing plane of someone that is right-handed. Anything more than that and you could call it a draw.
This thread is a complete joke because no golfer who shoots in the 90's possesses a "power fade". Hitting that shot with a driver takes a lot of skill and solid fundamentals. The biggest problem with attempting a power fade is the tendency to push it right, almost always ending up in severe trouble.
A shot that curves 5 yards near, at, or just after its apex is a fade or draw. A shot that is straight is just that--the ball don't curve period. Now lots of people will pull or push a straight shot and call it a fade or draw. Ain't so. The biggest problem with trying to hit a hard fade which is a shot that goes straight and curves gently to the right near, at or after the shot apex is pulling the shot and/or releasing the clubhead and/or completing the swing as if you were trying to draw the ball. All of those in part or whole combine to create the dreaded "Double Cross". A push results from an attempt to hit it straight or draw it and not finishing the swing. By the way, I played a hard "power" fade effectively for several years with my original "Pittsburgh Persimmon" Taylor 9* driver with steel shaft and have never found another club that would do it. Mickelson was on solid ground when he carried two drivers--one for draw and one for fade.
If you're slice/fade is not apparent in your irons, I suspect you're angle of attack with the big stick is too steep. When you're driving the ball you should be smashing it when the club face is on its way back up, whereas with your irons you should be smashing down into it.
This adds credence to a previous post about putting the ball further forward at address.
The truth is there are a hundred different things which can cause a slice, so no-one can really tell you the problem without having a look at your swing.
I have to agree though that if it is a power fade: don't fight it, but I suspect you are dealing with a balloon slice?...
A shot that curves 5 yards near, at, or just after its apex is a fade or draw. A shot that is straight is just that--the ball don't curve period. Now lots of people will pull or push a straight shot and call it a fade or draw. Ain't so. The biggest problem with trying to hit a hard fade which is a shot that goes straight and curves gently to the right near, at or after the shot apex is pulling the shot and/or releasing the clubhead and/or completing the swing as if you were trying to draw the ball. All of those in part or whole combine to create the dreaded "Double Cross". A push results from an attempt to hit it straight or draw it and not finishing the swing. By the way, I played a hard "power" fade effectively for several years with my original "Pittsburgh Persimmon" Taylor 9* driver with steel shaft and have never found another club that would do it. Mickelson was on solid ground when he carried two drivers--one for draw and one for fade.
Well stated. I messed around with trying to get a stock fade. It seemed to work best with a slight grip change, but I bagged it because of the double-crosses even from just slightly weakening the grip.
Yes, I am that moron wrestling on the tee box with himself.
I hit a consistent fade drive, not such a fade on irons or hybrids.
I don't really like to admit this, given it is true idiocy on my part, but damn, I have been unaccepting of my fade, and constantly want to challenge the right side with a hopeful, drawed drive. Alas, I am always surprised by the ball not being in the fairway, offering still further proof of my dolty poopy faced stupidity.
can youse pro types help me?
thanks cholos
signed,
poopy faced driver
So is that sharp pain in your lower abdomen your appendix? How about those tooth aches? What causes those? Do you get a mirror and pliers and try to fix your teeth?
NO, you get professional help. So why does it make sense to try to fix your own golf swing when we all know professional golfers seek help from a teaching pro when they have problems? We can't see our own swing-- and since much of it occurs at the subconscious level, what we think we do is NOT what we actually do. So smart amateurs get help from professionals.
The LAST think a smart amateur does is listen to the guy in the range booth beside him (or someone on a golf discussion forum!). "The blind leading the blind" comes to mind. That guy will tell you what he feels or thinks he is doing-- and it will invariably be a bandaid fix rather than addressing the root cause-- that a professional golf swing teacher will recognize. The pro will know a dozen ways to corrrect your swing. Most of them will be indirect, changing grip or backswing plane, foot placement, weight transfer, or other seemingly minor factors that make all the difference. Take a lesson.
Well stated. I messed around with trying to get a stock fade. It seemed to work best with a slight grip change, but I bagged it because of the double-crosses even from just slightly weakening the grip.
I almost guarantee that you or any reasonably proficient ball striker could come up with an automatic power fade driver. In fact, reading this thread has made my memories of when I hit them routinely. But the planets must be in alignment for the head, shaft, club length, ball position, tee height, clubhead path, angle of attack et seq. Almost without exception, you need a lower lofted driver head than you normally use. A stiffer shaft helps but if your timing is very good, adjustable and repeatable, you could get away with a more whippy shaft. You've get to aim left of your intended landing area and set up so that you don't really have to change your swing at all including the grip. So long as the clubface impacts the ball on the right path with the club face square to the intended landing area, you are almost there since about 85% of the ball direcdtion is dictated by face position at impact. So what your set-up change is producing is that 15% left-to-right clubhead path. When it is dialed in, you should be able to control trajectory of the drive with tee height. Unless you have pro clubhead speed, I don't thing that hitting down on the ball will produce anything other than high banana balls. So I would try to catch it on the level to upswing. A good strong hold-off left-hand grip through impact goes along way towards putting the power into the fade.
I almost guarantee that you or any reasonably proficient ball striker could come up with an automatic power fade driver. In fact, reading this thread has made my memories of when I hit them routinely. But the planets must be in alignment for the head, shaft, club length, ball position, tee height, clubhead path, angle of attack et seq. Almost without exception, you need a lower lofted driver head than you normally use. A stiffer shaft helps but if your timing is very good, adjustable and repeatable, you could get away with a more whippy shaft. You've get to aim left of your intended landing area and set up so that you don't really have to change your swing at all including the grip. So long as the clubface impacts the ball on the right path with the club face square to the intended landing area, you are almost there since about 85% of the ball direcdtion is dictated by face position at impact. So what your set-up change is producing is that 15% left-to-right clubhead path. When it is dialed in, you should be able to control trajectory of the drive with tee height. Unless you have pro clubhead speed, I don't thing that hitting down on the ball will produce anything other than high banana balls. So I would try to catch it on the level to upswing. A good strong hold-off left-hand grip through impact goes along way towards putting the power into the fade.
I almost guarantee that you or any reasonably proficient ball striker could come up with an automatic power fade driver. In fact, reading this thread has made my memories of when I hit them routinely. But the planets must be in alignment for the head, shaft, club length, ball position, tee height, clubhead path, angle of attack et seq. Almost without exception, you need a lower lofted driver head than you normally use. A stiffer shaft helps but if your timing is very good, adjustable and repeatable, you could get away with a more whippy shaft. You've get to aim left of your intended landing area and set up so that you don't really have to change your swing at all including the grip. So long as the clubface impacts the ball on the right path with the club face square to the intended landing area, you are almost there since about 85% of the ball direcdtion is dictated by face position at impact. So what your set-up change is producing is that 15% left-to-right clubhead path. When it is dialed in, you should be able to control trajectory of the drive with tee height. Unless you have pro clubhead speed, I don't thing that hitting down on the ball will produce anything other than high banana balls. So I would try to catch it on the level to upswing. A good strong hold-off left-hand grip through impact goes along way towards putting the power into the fade.
My normal drive is straight. Again, a straight drive for me (because I'm right handed) is the ball curving about 5 yards from right to left but essentially right down the middle of the fairway. I'm good.
Now, if I want to hit a slight fade I will make the slightest changes in my set up to achieve that goal. All I do is open my stance the slightest bit and I keep the face of my driver extended through the shot just the slightest bit before letting it turn over.
I hit the most beautiful power fade yesterday at a course named Admiral Baker. It was the ninth hole, par 5 and I hit a huge power fade which left me about 250 yards to the green. My 3 wood came up three yards short of the green and then I chipped in for eagle. I had 3 birdies and one eagle yesterday but I shot a pretty disappointing 77. My short irons were bad.
No need that stick. Plenty of used women's drivers with senior flex shafts to do the same thing.
But that fat old dude drives it 300 yards while releasing with his right hand and stepping over! He is a practicing Anestheologist. That whippy shaft driver has a teeny 280 cc head, small than today's 3W.
Something tells he his drives (with a little draw) would still be going up when they passed yours.
But that fat old dude drives it 300 yards while releasing with his right hand and stepping over! He is a practicing Anestheologist. That whippy shaft driver has a teeny 280 cc head, small than today's 3W.
Something tells he his drives (with a little draw) would still be going up when they passed yours.Larry
While we all like to hit it as far as we can, there is really not much to be gained by being concerned that there are some (or many) who can hit it farther than we can. The number one writes in the little square on the scorecard under the hole number is more important than the length of the drive or the judges' style points of the swings it took to get to that number.
So is that sharp pain in your lower abdomen your appendix? How about those tooth aches? What causes those? Do you get a mirror and pliers and try to fix your teeth?
NO, you get professional help. So why does it make sense to try to fix your own golf swing when we all know professional golfers seek help from a teaching pro when they have problems? We can't see our own swing-- and since much of it occurs at the subconscious level, what we think we do is NOT what we actually do. So smart amateurs get help from professionals.
The LAST think a smart amateur does is listen to the guy in the range booth beside him (or someone on a golf discussion forum!). "The blind leading the blind" comes to mind. That guy will tell you what he feels or thinks he is doing-- and it will invariably be a bandaid fix rather than addressing the root cause-- that a professional golf swing teacher will recognize. The pro will know a dozen ways to corrrect your swing. Most of them will be indirect, changing grip or backswing plane, foot placement, weight transfer, or other seemingly minor factors that make all the difference. Take a lesson.
Larry
Now, now Lary, I think the word you are looking for here is "thing." I'm usually the last one to point out this type of mistake but you're such a pain in the arse to me about my poor spelling that I can't resist.... Stones and glass houses and such. You really are way too old to be learning these lessons.
I almost guarantee that you or any reasonably proficient ball striker could come up with an automatic power fade driver. In fact, reading this thread has made my memories of when I hit them routinely. But the planets must be in alignment for the head, shaft, club length, ball position, tee height, clubhead path, angle of attack et seq. Almost without exception, you need a lower lofted driver head than you normally use. A stiffer shaft helps but if your timing is very good, adjustable and repeatable, you could get away with a more whippy shaft. You've get to aim left of your intended landing area and set up so that you don't really have to change your swing at all including the grip. So long as the clubface impacts the ball on the right path with the club face square to the intended landing area, you are almost there since about 85% of the ball direcdtion is dictated by face position at impact. So what your set-up change is producing is that 15% left-to-right clubhead path. When it is dialed in, you should be able to control trajectory of the drive with tee height. Unless you have pro clubhead speed, I don't thing that hitting down on the ball will produce anything other than high banana balls. So I would try to catch it on the level to upswing. A good strong hold-off left-hand grip through impact goes along way towards putting the power into the fade.
I agree with this approach, my problem is as soon as I set up left I'm going to at least occasionally double cross that. Although I've made technique changes over the years that might lessen this tendency so it might be worth giving it another try.
I agree with this approach, my problem is as soon as I set up left I'm going to at least occasionally double cross that. Although I've made technique changes over the years that might lessen this tendency so it might be worth giving it another try.
Over the years I've watched a lot of Trevino on TV and close-up in person. Recall reading in some golf magazine article long ago that he was a hooker like Hogan early on and had a bandaid to prevent that. He called it "moving up on the ball" and I assume by watching him hit fades with driver and long irons that he was referrring to letting his swing center move forward on the way down instead of holding it back like most of us do to hit draws. It is a subtle move that can save you from the dreaded double cross but if done to excess, you will hit ze beeg Chiquita. At the height of his game, Nickaus admitted that many times he would save a shot in mid-swing by moving his hands this way or that between the start of his downswing and prior to impact. I imagine it would be possible to do the same with the Trevino move if you sense a straight or draw swing coming when you are trying to fade it. Just another thing to clog the golf brain.
Over the years I've watched a lot of Trevino on TV and close-up in person. Recall reading in some golf magazine article long ago that he was a hooker like Hogan early on and had a bandaid to prevent that. He called it "moving up on the ball" and I assume by watching him hit fades with driver and long irons that he was referrring to letting his swing center move forward on the way down instead of holding it back like most of us do to hit draws. It is a subtle move that can save you from the dreaded double cross but if done to excess, you will hit ze beeg Chiquita. At the height of his game, Nickaus admitted that many times he would save a shot in mid-swing by moving his hands this way or that between the start of his downswing and prior to impact. I imagine it would be possible to do the same with the Trevino move if you sense a straight or draw swing coming when you are trying to fade it. Just another thing to clog the golf brain.
Being able to save shots is a curse and a blessing. Quick hands can save shots but quick hands also get too active. The interesting thing is I have no problem creating a sizeable fade around a corner, but the slight fade, which I'd love to have, is a different matter.
Being able to save shots is a curse and a blessing. Quick hands can save shots but quick hands also get too active. The interesting thing is I have no problem creating a sizeable fade around a corner, but the slight fade, which I'd love to have, is a different matter.
Well, if you can hit a sizeable fade at will, just do a bit less of what you do to do it. Since my natural driver shot is a straight shot, I have to close my stance a bit and hold the shoulders back a mili-second or five to draw it. However, my natural iron shot is a draw with the long ones and straight with the short clubs. I think I will work on setting up and swinging to hit a straight drive and maybe just try to heel the ball slightly inside the sweetspot. Maybe open the face at address a degree or two. Whatever works.
I would bet that most amateurs have no idea where their clubhead is when it is behind them. MOST take it too far inside and then swipe across the ball instead of swinging through it on plane.
You need another set of eyes to tell you the truth-- and show you how to swing the clubhead on your toe line-- even for the shortest chip...
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
So is that sharp pain in your lower abdomen your appendix? How about those tooth aches? What causes those? Do you get a mirror and pliers and try to fix your teeth?
Is this your new line, Larry? It's really quite funny coming from the guy who's offered more unsolicited "secrets" than just about anyone else talking about golf... ...in any forum.
NO, you get professional help. So why does it make sense to try to fix your own golf swing when we all know professional golfers seek help from a teaching pro when they have problems? We can't see our own swing-- and since much of it occurs at the subconscious level, what we think we do is NOT what we actually do. So smart amateurs get help from professionals.
Your lack of ability to see the swings of the many people to whom you've offered your "wisdom" never stopped you...
The LAST think a smart amateur does is listen to the guy in the range booth beside him (or someone on a golf discussion forum!). "The blind leading the blind" comes to mind. That guy will tell you what he feels or thinks he is doing-- and it will invariably be a bandaid fix rather than addressing the root cause-- that a professional golf swing teacher will recognize. The pro will know a dozen ways to corrrect your swing. Most of them will be indirect, changing grip or backswing plane, foot placement, weight transfer, or other seemingly minor factors that make all the difference. Take a lesson.
So this is the only thing we'll hear from you now, is it Larry? Because you're the hack in the next range booth who won't shut up.
Happy to help.
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
I would bet that most amateurs have no idea where their clubhead is when it is behind them. MOST take it too far inside and then swipe across the ball instead of swinging through it on plane.
You need another set of eyes to tell you the truth-- and show you how to swing the clubhead on your toe line-- even for the shortest chip...
Or you could just use a video camera... ...which is in pretty much everyone's phone these days.
Oh, right! You're the guy who claimed that no good pro used video...
...right up until you started going to one who did...
...then it was no good pro doesn't use video.
Happy to help.
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Of course when we look at an interesting thread and see that the last poster was AB, we all just bail out. We don't even look to see what hateful BS he posted this time. Why doesn't he just go away???
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
Of course when we look at an interesting thread and see that the last poster was AB, we all just bail out. We don't even look to see what hateful BS he posted this time. Why doesn't he just go away???
So this post was you "bailing out", was it?
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Yes, I am that moron wrestling on the tee box with himself.
I hit a consistent fade drive, not such a fade on irons or hybrids.
I don't really like to admit this, given it is true idiocy on my part, but damn, I have been unaccepting of my fade, and constantly want to challenge the right side with a hopeful, drawed drive. Alas, I am always surprised by the ball not being in the fairway, offering still further proof of my dolty poopy faced stupidity.
can youse pro types help me?
thanks cholos
signed,
poopy faced driver
JackP, I'd like to apologize on behalf of Golf Review that your well-constructed thread has been ruined by Alangbaker's quixiotic attempt to prove superiority over a feeble old man.
Second, you are in denial about your tee shots. Although the subject of powerfades has been debated here quite extensively, you are hitting slices. The very fact that your ball is ended up in the right rough proves this. Come to grips with the extent of your problem. There are 12 steps and each one must be taken in order, although we'll allow you skip the one about apologizing for past transgressions because it's just a golf swing.
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Originally Posted by JackP
Yes, I am that moron wrestling on the tee box with himself.
I hit a consistent fade drive, not such a fade on irons or hybrids.
I don't really like to admit this, given it is true idiocy on my part, but damn, I have been unaccepting of my fade, and constantly want to challenge the right side with a hopeful, drawed drive. Alas, I am always surprised by the ball not being in the fairway, offering still further proof of my dolty poopy faced stupidity.
can youse pro types help me?
thanks cholos
Sorry, but if you have a driver swing that consistently moves (say) 10 yards left to right and you can't aim correctly to put that in the fairway, I can't see any point in trying to help you.
Aim for the left edge. Done.
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JackP, I'd like to apologize on behalf of Golf Review that your well-constructed thread has been ruined by Alangbaker's quixiotic attempt to prove superiority over a feeble old man.
Second, you are in denial about your tee shots. Although the subject of powerfades has been debated here quite extensively, you are hitting slices. The very fact that your ball is ended up in the right rough proves this. Come to grips with the extent of your problem. There are 12 steps and each one must be taken in order, although we'll allow you skip the one about apologizing for past transgressions because it's just a golf swing.
I said when I challenge the right side of the fairway, I can't find my ball. That doesn't mean I hit a slice, necessarily. It does mean I am not turning the ball over as desired tho.
The thread was an obvious admission that my game/course management is what is truly faulty.
I am surprised so few picked up on this aspect.
I mistakenly thought this was a real golfer's site, not some hack room for hurterers with agendas of hate. I will proceed with caution, henceforth.
For those who were instructive, I thank you.
*wonder if GolfWRX Forums are a potential source of future golf truth*.
I said when I challenge the right side of the fairway, I can't find my ball. That doesn't mean I hit a slice, necessarily. It does mean I am not turning the ball over as desired tho.
The thread was an obvious admission that my game/course management is what is truly faulty.
I am surprised so few picked up on this aspect.
I mistakenly thought this was a real golfer's site, not some hack room for hurterers with agendas of hate. I will proceed with caution, henceforth.
For those who were instructive, I thank you.
*wonder if GolfWRX Forums are a potential source of future golf truth*.
You need to quit focusing on everyone else and face the facts: You slice. You wouldn't be in the right rough all day long if you were hitting power fades. The power fade is reserved for the accomplished player, such as myself. I can hit a power fade at will....and I never slice.
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Originally Posted by famousdavis
You need to quit focusing on everyone else and face the facts: You slice. You wouldn't be in the right rough all day long if you were hitting power fades. The power fade is reserved for the accomplished player, such as myself. I can hit a power fade at will....and I never slice.
Did your hat come with a free bowl of soup, too?
And if you aimed at the right edge of the fairway and then hit a power fade, you sure as hell would end up in the rough.
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And if you aimed at the right edge of the fairway and then hit a power fade, you sure as hell would end up in the rough.
Not if he pulled it on the downswing and the ball started out left of his aimed line and power-faded back into the middle of the fairway. A nice on-purpose over-the-top move is way to hit the power fade. What they won't teach you in golf school.
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Originally Posted by mongrel
Not if he pulled it on the downswing and the ball started out left of his aimed line and power-faded back into the middle of the fairway. A nice on-purpose over-the-top move is way to hit the power fade. What they won't teach you in golf school.
Context is everything.
Aiming right and expecting to hit a draw means you aren't expecting to pull it left off the face.
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On the rare occasion that I choose to execute a power fade I simply open my stance a little and then delay my release for .01 seconds longer than I do with my normal release. Keep in mind that what appears easy for me is, for the most part, impossible for the general golfing public. A pipe dream, if you will.
Aiming right and expecting to hit a draw means you aren't expecting to pull it left off the face.
No. Aiming it right and purposely pulling it. The consummate anti-double cross move. If it hooks or draws unexpectely, you will still have a shot. If it it goes straight, you still have a shot. If you cut the ball as intended, the shot is perfect. You are not expecting to pull it left off the club face. The swing path is outside to inside but you are aimed at the right side and not the left. So you are good to go. I'd have to show you how to do it in person.
To hit a "power" fade I just swing faster ....
To get a draw takes some concentration,2 inches backward stand,left hand twisted a inch to the right....
A power fade is a loser shot.....
----------------------------------------------------
"The statement below is true.
The statement above is false"
To hit a "power" fade I just swing faster ....
To get a draw takes some concentration,2 inches backward stand,left hand twisted a inch to the right....
A power fade is a loser shot.....
----------------------------------------------------
"The statement below is true.
The statement above is false"
Yes, I am that moron wrestling on the tee box with himself.
I hit a consistent fade drive, not such a fade on irons or hybrids.
I don't really like to admit this, given it is true idiocy on my part, but damn, I have been unaccepting of my fade, and constantly want to challenge the right side with a hopeful, drawed drive. Alas, I am always surprised by the ball not being in the fairway, offering still further proof of my dolty poopy faced stupidity.
can youse pro types help me?
thanks cholos
signed,
poopy faced driver
I can help you. Don't ever use "dolty poopy face" in a post again on a forum that consists of 98% male posters.
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You need to quit focusing on everyone else and face the facts: You slice. You wouldn't be in the right rough all day long if you were hitting power fades. The power fade is reserved for the accomplished player, such as myself. I can hit a power fade at will....and I never slice.
So they should take lessons and do the drills to learn where their clubhead is and how it feels to propel the clubhead on the correct path through impact and beyond.
For most of us including pros, that kind of consistent control requires a less-than-maximum effort. Few can do it correctly while exerting "all out" effort.
I don't have a good swing ingrained, I continue to work on it every swing whether on course or range. So I must take a few seconds to rehearse my backswing, review my half back and vertical positions, weight distribution, grip pressure, spine angle, head position, etc. etc. I ensure I have all of that correct, then I return to address and do it at tempo. I am not alone in this; I must do what Mike Weir also apparently needs to do. After I rehearse, I know I can hit a good shot UNLESS I let my mind be distracted by a stupid urge to hit it FAR--which cancels out all intelligence!
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
I don't have a good swing ingrained, I continue to work on it every swing whether on course or range. So I must take a few seconds to rehearse my backswing, review my half back and vertical positions, weight distribution, grip pressure, spine angle, head position, etc. etc. I ensure I have all of that correct, then I return to address and do it at tempo. I am not alone in this; I must do what Mike Weir also apparently needs to do. After I rehearse, I know I can hit a good shot UNLESS I let my mind be distracted by a stupid urge to hit it FAR--which cancels out all intelligence!
So... ...why have you told us all so many times that you have succeeded and would be posting scores in the 70s starting any moment?
Just curious.
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This forum is pleasant learning environment--until the misguided use it to launch personal attacks, continuous personal harassment on other posters. Where is their shame? They seem not to notice that nobody replies or comments on their noxious posts... Normal people would leave where they are not welcome...
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
This forum is pleasant learning environment--until the misguided use it to launch personal attacks, continuous personal harassment on other posters. Where is their shame? They seem not to notice that nobody replies or comments on their noxious posts... Normal people would leave where they are not welcome...
Who launched a personal attack, Larry? I simply asked an honest question about your habit of telling us all how you've already solved the golf swing... ...until you have to come back and tell us the next time.
If this was too difficult a concept for you to comprehend, I apologize for not accommodating your level of comprehension. I'll try to use smaller words and easier concepts in the future.
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The only way to get rid of a fade is through many agonizing hours of continuing to swing from in to out across the ball. Take it from someone who knows and just accomplished it after about 6 months of training.
The problem comes in "committing" to it. Whenever you get out on the course you become unsure of the in/out swing after years of hitting the fade and you start dropping back to the security of the old swing. It is time to throw the blanket away, Linus, and swing in to out come what may! You may have a few bad rounds at first, but eventually you will become more comfortable and sure of the swing and commit to it.
Nothing worthwhile comes easy in life. I ought to know because I have been married for nearly 26 years and she still makes me work to get it. (Crazy indian squaw . . . . . . )
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
The only way to get rid of a fade is through many agonizing hours of continuing to swing from in to out across the ball. Take it from someone who knows and just accomplished it after about 6 months of training.
The problem comes in "committing" to it. Whenever you get out on the course you become unsure of the in/out swing after years of hitting the fade and you start dropping back to the security of the old swing. It is time to throw the blanket away, Linus, and swing in to out come what may! You may have a few bad rounds at first, but eventually you will become more comfortable and sure of the swing and commit to it.
Nothing worthwhile comes easy in life. I ought to know because I have been married for nearly 26 years and she still makes me work to get it. (Crazy indian squaw . . . . . . )
Mizuno irons -- made by Hattori Hanzo, forged in the fires of Mt. Fujiyama.
The only way to get rid of a fade is through many agonizing hours of continuing to swing from in to out across the ball. Take it from someone who knows and just accomplished it after about 6 months of training.
The problem comes in "committing" to it. Whenever you get out on the course you become unsure of the in/out swing after years of hitting the fade and you start dropping back to the security of the old swing. It is time to throw the blanket away, Linus, and swing in to out come what may! You may have a few bad rounds at first, but eventually you will become more comfortable and sure of the swing and commit to it.
Nothing worthwhile comes easy in life. I ought to know because I have been married for nearly 26 years and she still makes me work to get it. (Crazy indian squaw . . . . . . )
Everything about this post is incorrect. I could set someone up so that they would hit a draw every single time. A few years ago I was playing in a scramble with some company guys. One of my buddies was slicing on every tee shot. I repositioned his left foot, changed his grip from weak to strong, made him put his left shoulder forward of his right and then told him to hit it. He told me that this setup felt horrible and that he felt like he'd miss the ball completely. He then proceeded to his the most beautiful draw you've ever seen. This is just one example. I've shown many other people how to hit a draw and many have gone on to lead satisfying lives.
So i went to a tight course i know, where driving well is a must. 3 over after nine, every drive a fade or an outright slice. Many great rescue shots into the green were required. very maddening for me. The more i played it to the left, the worse it got. The second nine, even narrower, I had great difficulties finding the fairway as an all out slice manifested. after a quad bogey, i tore up my score card and just tried to hit the ball better...my back was like an enraged vice grip. My back is a disaster since the car accident. this was my second round since it occurred and i couldn't even walk the course, let alone carry my bag. cart golf, I am not a fan of it at all. I think it makes me play poorly, as i just don't relax or grind as well.
I expect I'll need some lessons. I just need a few tweaks i am sure, as their have been entire seasons when i have driven the ball just fantastically, whether straight, light power fade and even a nice draw sometimes.
I now remember why I abandoned living with a sometimes fade cum potential always slice.
To correctly state, I hit a slice, not a power fade. it only seems like a power fade since i have been working so hard to turn it over, or hit it straight and boring. that effort seems to have cut down on the rotation my ball is normally imparted with my flawed swing...
I really should be so much better than this.
signed,
Jack "completely bummed out about my golf game" Peeface
The only way to get rid of a fade is through many agonizing hours of continuing to swing from in to out across the ball. Take it from someone who knows and just accomplished it after about 6 months of training.
The problem comes in "committing" to it. Whenever you get out on the course you become unsure of the in/out swing after years of hitting the fade and you start dropping back to the security of the old swing. It is time to throw the blanket away, Linus, and swing in to out come what may! You may have a few bad rounds at first, but eventually you will become more comfortable and sure of the swing and commit to it.
Nothing worthwhile comes easy in life. I ought to know because I have been married for nearly 26 years and she still makes me work to get it. (Crazy indian squaw . . . . . . )
Wow. That sounds like someone else is swinging your club!
But hitting it straight with any club is easy. Just be absolutely sure your grip is correct, your setup is correct and that your backswing takes you to a position wherein the club shaft is vertical with your hands just outside your back foot. If you are in balance, you can simply pivot toward the target and you will swing the clubhead through the ball on the target line-- the ball will go straight or draw.
Such a backswing rehearsal is exactly what we see some touring pros do before every swing. They do it, check it, then they return to address and do it dynamically.
Why can't you do that? Do it slowly at first to ensure you do it correctly. There is nothing mysterious about the golf swing. You are in total control. I suggest lessons.
Everything about this post is incorrect. I could set someone up so that they would hit a draw every single time. A few years ago I was playing in a scramble with some company guys. One of my buddies was slicing on every tee shot. I repositioned his left foot, changed his grip from weak to strong, made him put his left shoulder forward of his right and then told him to hit it. He told me that this setup felt horrible and that he felt like he'd miss the ball completely. He then proceeded to his the most beautiful draw you've ever seen. This is just one example. I've shown many other people how to hit a draw and many have gone on to lead satisfying lives.
Sooner, sometimes you just don't know nothin'.
As you know, a teaching pro will scoff at such quick fixes. They always work immediately and they never work more than a few swings. Johnny Milller called the discoveries we make on the range or suggestions from another amateur "WOODS" for "Worked Only One Day." The only "fix" that creates consistency is correct fundamentals. Correct grip, correct stance, correct backswing.
"Almost right is completely wrong" to quote Hogan.
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
Wow. That sounds like someone else is swinging your club!
But hitting it straight with any club is easy. Just be absolutely sure your grip is correct, your setup is correct and that your backswing takes you to a position wherein the club shaft is vertical with your hands just outside your back foot. If you are in balance, you can simply pivot toward the target and you will swing the clubhead through the ball on the target line-- the ball will go straight or draw.
If doing that is as easy as you say...
...and if hitting it straight is all you need to shoot 80 from the white tees as you also say...
...why can't you do it?
Such a backswing rehearsal is exactly what we see some touring pros do before every swing. They do it, check it, then they return to address and do it dynamically.
Why can't you do that? Do it slowly at first to ensure you do it correctly. There is nothing mysterious about the golf swing. You are in total control. I suggest lessons.
If it's as easy as you just claimed, why would you need lessons?
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
As you know, a teaching pro will scoff at such quick fixes. They always work immediately and they never work more than a few swings. Johnny Milller called the discoveries we make on the range or suggestions from another amateur "WOODS" for "Worked Only One Day." The only "fix" that creates consistency is correct fundamentals. Correct grip, correct stance, correct backswing.
"Almost right is completely wrong" to quote Hogan.
Strange...
The only references that google finds for that being a quote of Hogan...
...are from you.
And you have a history of—shall we say—"selectively" quoting the bits of Hogan you like while ignoring the rest.
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I've decided to go back to my Ping Eye 2 irons but I'm going to regrip them with the best grips out there. The thing about leather grips is that they'll last you 5 years if you take care of them and nothing is tackier. I ordered them yesterday and I had them overnight them so that I can make the next tournament with the best grips in the field. At $49 each they cost me $300 more than the used clubs but I love the feel of leather.
I've decided to go back to my Ping Eye 2 irons but I'm going to regrip them with the best grips out there. The thing about leather grips is that they'll last you 5 years if you take care of them and nothing is tackier. I ordered them yesterday and I had them overnight them so that I can make the next tournament with the best grips in the field. At $49 each they cost me $300 more than the used clubs but I love the feel of leather.
You really should ask the pros about such stuff. I suspect Kevin would just roll his eyes...and remind you that there are FAR more important things you should be working on until you have a fundamentally correct repeating swing. Are you there yet? Likely he will remind you that any old grip works just fine with a good swing and say, "grab your 6i, and lets see how you have improved: take your stance...."
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
You really should ask the pros about such stuff. I suspect Kevin would just roll his eyes...and remind you that there are FAR more important things you should be working on until you have a fundamentally correct repeating swing. Are you there yet? Likely he will remind you that any old grip works just fine with a good swing and say, "grab your 6i, and lets see how you have improved: take your stance...."
So even an old hardened grip of the wrong diameter for your hand size... ....that would work "just fine" would it?
Tell you what, Larry: if the pros want to talk about what is or is not important, that's fine.
You can shut it with your suspicions about what they say, because (and lets face it) you're a hack.
Who was it said never to listen to the advice of anyone with more than a 10 handicap, Larry?
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You really should ask the pros about such stuff. I suspect Kevin would just roll his eyes...and remind you that there are FAR more important things you should be working on until you have a fundamentally correct repeating swing. Are you there yet? Likely he will remind you that any old grip works just fine with a good swing and say, "grab your 6i, and lets see how you have improved: take your stance...."
Larry
If you walk up to take a lesson with a old, hard, worn grip for a lesson and your Pro doesn't instruct you to change your grips, then you should fire him straight away. A worn grip requires a tight grip. A tight grip will kill a proper release of the club. Not to mention that you could kill someone if the club came out of your hands during a swing. Correction, someone with club head speed would kill someone. Your swing is too weak to hurt anyone...
I've decided to go back to my Ping Eye 2 irons but I'm going to regrip them with the best grips out there. The thing about leather grips is that they'll last you 5 years if you take care of them and nothing is tackier. I ordered them yesterday and I had them overnight them so that I can make the next tournament with the best grips in the field. At $49 each they cost me $300 more than the used clubs but I love the feel of leather.
Leathers good when it's dry. So they'll work for you. I prefer corded grips due to the wet conditions. I used to be able to get grips that were just corded on the top hand on the underside but lamkin stopped making then.
If you walk up to take a lesson with a old, hard, worn grip for a lesson and your Pro doesn't instruct you to change your grips, then you should fire him straight away. A worn grip requires a tight grip. A tight grip will kill a proper release of the club. Not to mention that you could kill someone if the club came out of your hands during a swing. Correction, someone with club head speed would kill someone. Your swing is too weak to hurt anyone...
WRONG! What we would call "old hardened grips" today were the standard 70 years ago. Bobby Jones and all his peers played with wound leather grips on wooden shafts. The grips OFTEN came loose during a round. But their grip pressure was light, so the grip surface itself simply made no difference! They could play just fine with the grip leather completely missing, even in the rain! When or if you ever become able to use a very light grip pressure, you will understand that.
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
WRONG! What we would call "old hardened grips" today were the standard 70 years ago. Bobby Jones and all his peers played with wound leather grips on wooden shafts. The grips OFTEN came loose during a round. But their grip pressure was light, so the grip surface itself simply made no difference! They could play just fine with the grip leather completely missing, even in the rain! When or if you ever become able to use a very light grip pressure, you will understand that.
Larry: you really do lack anything even resembling a clue.
If one is to have a light grip pressure, it is quite obvious that the grip surface matters very much. It is astounding to me that you could claim any knowledge of physics and not understand something so basic.
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"you," "you" "you", so boring. Everyone tunes out. The purpose of a PUBLIC golf discussion forum is to address the premise of the thread, not each other. Nobody cares!! NOBODY CARES! Nobody cares what you think of me. But they do recognize an obsessed nutcase when they see his continuing pattern. Go away!!
I've decided to go back to my Ping Eye 2 irons but I'm going to regrip them with the best grips out there. The thing about leather grips is that they'll last you 5 years if you take care of them and nothing is tackier. I ordered them yesterday and I had them overnight them so that I can make the next tournament with the best grips in the field. At $49 each they cost me $300 more than the used clubs but I love the feel of leather.
"you," "you" "you", so boring. Everyone tunes out. The purpose of a PUBLIC golf discussion forum is to address the premise of the thread, not each other. Nobody cares!! NOBODY CARES! Nobody cares what you think of me. But they do recognize an obsessed nutcase when they see his continuing pattern. Go away!!
Larry
I think your wrong. We all sit back and wait for Alan to dissect your posts. It's as predictable as the sun coming up each morning. We take comfort in this.
You have to admit that some of the stuff you post is just idiotic. Like grips on a golf club don't matter. If that's the case, remove your grips before your next lesson and see what Pro Kevin says. When he asks just tell him grips really don't matter. I predict he'll have you doing wall drills for at least half of your lesson.
I think your wrong. We all sit back and wait for Alan to dissect your posts. It's as predictable as the sun coming up each morning. We take comfort in this.
You have to admit that some of the stuff you post is just idiotic. Like grips on a golf club don't matter. If that's the case, remove your grips before your next lesson and see what Pro Kevin says. When he asks just tell him grips really don't matter. I predict he'll have you doing wall drills for at least half of your lesson.
Hey, remember I am the guy who always suggests that beginners buy used premium clubs, cavity backs with regular flex graphite shafts--and to have them regripped if necessary. $5 grips, NOT expensive leather. Handicap golfers need decent grips until we finally learn to "let the club do the work."
But VERY good players acknowledge that grips matter less as the golfer becomes more skilled. They can play with wet grips. Watch Bobby Jones, his grip pressure is extremely light (like Sam Snead described) and he even allows the handle to loosely swivel inside his left hand on top. What difference would the grip surface make to him?
You can see the space between the butt of the club and the heel of his left hand. Teaching pros hate that for developing amateurs, but at Jones' level, it works.
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
"you," "you" "you", so boring. Everyone tunes out. The purpose of a PUBLIC golf discussion forum is to address the premise of the thread, not each other. Nobody cares!! NOBODY CARES! Nobody cares what you think of me. But they do recognize an obsessed nutcase when they see his continuing pattern. Go away!!
Didn't you read this part?
"If one is to have a light grip pressure, it is quite obvious that the grip surface matters very much. It is astounding to me that you could claim any knowledge of physics and not understand something so basic."
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
Hey, remember I am the guy who always suggests that beginners buy used premium clubs, cavity backs with regular flex graphite shafts--and to have them regripped if necessary. $5 grips, NOT expensive leather. Handicap golfers need decent grips until we finally learn to "let the club do the work."
And who here has "always" suggested that beginners by used premium clubs, Larry?
You avoid "you" by making sweeping generalizations about everyone.
But VERY good players acknowledge that grips matter less as the golfer becomes more skilled. They can play with wet grips. Watch Bobby Jones, his grip pressure is extremely light (like Sam Snead described) and he even allows the handle to loosely swivel inside his left hand on top. What difference would the grip surface make to him?
You can see the space between the butt of the club and the heel of his left hand. Teaching pros hate that for developing amateurs, but at Jones' level, it works.
That's not "swiveling" at all, Larry.
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Hey, remember I am the guy who always suggests that beginners buy used premium clubs, cavity backs with regular flex graphite shafts--and to have them regripped if necessary. $5 grips, NOT expensive leather. Handicap golfers need decent grips until we finally learn to "let the club do the work."
But VERY good players acknowledge that grips matter less as the golfer becomes more skilled. They can play with wet grips. Watch Bobby Jones, his grip pressure is extremely light (like Sam Snead described) and he even allows the handle to loosely swivel inside his left hand on top. What difference would the grip surface make to him?
You can see the space between the butt of the club and the heel of his left hand. Teaching pros hate that for developing amateurs, but at Jones' level, it works.
Larry
Again you fail. The best are very specific about their connection to the club. They even specify number of wraps of masking and even duct tape. Some increase the width of just one hand.
If you have a loose hand grip and the grip is worn smooth the club would fly out of your hands. How effective will that be? You really can't be this obtuse. Or can you?
Do you thing a player with large hands should play the same grip as on with small hands?
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Originally Posted by poe4soul
Again you fail. The best are very specific about their connection to the club. They even specify number of wraps of masking and even duct tape. Some increase the width of just one hand.
If you have a loose hand grip and the grip is worn smooth the club would fly out of your hands. How effective will that be? You really can't be this obtuse. Or can you?
Do you thing a player with large hands should play the same grip as on with small hands?
Come on Poe: he claims to have studied nuclear physics but he lacks even a basic level of understanding of simple mechanics; in this case, coefficient of friction.
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Again you fail. The best are very specific about their connection to the club. They even specify number of wraps of masking and even duct tape. Some increase the width of just one hand.
If you have a loose hand grip and the grip is worn smooth the club would fly out of your hands. How effective will that be? You really can't be this obtuse. Or can you?
Do you thing a player with large hands should play the same grip as on with small hands?
Well, I "thing" someone should start dissecting your posts and see how you like it. I would bet you would be screaming to have him banned....
Yes, I am that moron wrestling on the tee box with himself.
I hit a consistent fade drive, not such a fade on irons or hybrids.
I don't really like to admit this, given it is true idiocy on my part, but damn, I have been unaccepting of my fade, and constantly want to challenge the right side with a hopeful, drawed drive. Alas, I am always surprised by the ball not being in the fairway, offering still further proof of my dolty poopy faced stupidity.
can youse pro types help me?
thanks cholos
signed,
poopy faced driver
Roll your left hand over clockwise to see one more knuckle when your grip the club.
Swing as normal.
Straightens my fade right up.
"If one is to have a light grip pressure, it is quite obvious that the grip surface matters very much. It is astounding to me that you could claim any knowledge of physics and not understand something so basic."
I think you should go easy on him regarding grips since he has not been playing long enough to remember when leather wrap grips were prevalent. Sometimes they would start to unravel but that was rare and would only occur after years of useage. Leather would also dry out and become slick as snot on a coat sleeve. Players who played dry leather grips were all hackers, neophytes, or kids. When I started playing in the 1950's, I used my father's cut-down blades with leather grips. He never bothered to tell me that you had to wash them and treat them with something to keep them soft. As a result, I had a real hard time with the clubs slipping at various points in my swings Properly cared for, leather grips would last from twice to five times as long as rubber grips. I've found nothing today that feels as good as those Neumanns. I equate grips to race car tires. The grip is the sole contact the golfer has with the club. The tires are the only contact the car has with the road. Playing clubs with slick worn out grips is like driving a race car with worn out tires. Both ways you lose.
I think you should go easy on him regarding grips since he has not been playing long enough to remember when leather wrap grips were prevalent. Sometimes they would start to unravel but that was rare and would only occur after years of useage. Leather would also dry out and become slick as snot on a coat sleeve. Players who played dry leather grips were all hackers, neophytes, or kids. When I started playing in the 1950's, I used my father's cut-down blades with leather grips. He never bothered to tell me that you had to wash them and treat them with something to keep them soft. As a result, I had a real hard time with the clubs slipping at various points in my swings Properly cared for, leather grips would last from twice to five times as long as rubber grips. I've found nothing today that feels as good as those Neumanns. I equate grips to race car tires. The grip is the sole contact the golfer has with the club. The tires are the only contact the car has with the road. Playing clubs with slick worn out grips is like driving a race car with worn out tires. Both ways you lose.
Jack Nicklaus replaced his grips often and, according to some, he was very particular about their weight. He would have the guy who regripped them do 'em all over again if they didn't feel just right. I think Jack was probably one of the most self absorbed golfers of all time, right up their with Tiger and Trevino. That's probably necessary if you want to be the best in the world at something.
The grips used by Bobby Jones were most likely very tacky when new and were probably replaced as soon as they became slick. They were also much smaller in diameter than the standard sized grip of today. That was necessary because using the hands back then was more important with the flexible hickory shafts.
Jack Nicklaus replaced his grips often and, according to some, he was very particular about their weight. He would have the guy who regripped them do 'em all over again if they didn't feel just right. I think Jack was probably one of the most self absorbed golfers of all time, right up their with Tiger and Trevino. That's probably necessary if you want to be the best in the world at something.
The grips used by Bobby Jones were most likely very tacky when new and were probably replaced as soon as they became slick. They were also much smaller in diameter than the standard sized grip of today. That was necessary because using the hands back then was more important with the flexible hickory shafts.
Jones' grips were smaller because he had small, soft hands. He did not claw himself out of poverty like Hogan or Trevino. He was to the Southern Aristocracy born. And he was a lawyer. Probably suckled and raised by a mammy two generations removed from slavery on Jone's grand-daddy's Plantation. Jones probably replaced his grips at the first sign of slickness because he was rich. His old grips probably found their ways to some Coca Cola factory worker's sticks.
Well, I "thing" someone should start dissecting your posts and see how you like it. I would bet you would be screaming to have him banned....
Larry
I assumed you understood this. You're the original "thing" for "think" poster, Lary. I saw it after I typed it but I really don't care.... It's you that claims 6th grade education when you are loosing an argument and point to some spelling, grammar mistake. You can never stick to a single argument...
How about swinging a 1 iron with no grip, 3 inches longer than standard? Fitting and grips to matter. Right?
Your wrong on the banned; bring it on! Someone is insulting my ability to spell, type, grammar, etc. Get real! You are such an old man.
Jones' grips were smaller because he had small, soft hands. He did not claw himself out of poverty like Hogan or Trevino. He was to the Southern Aristocracy born. And he was a lawyer. Probably suckled and raised by a mammy two generations removed from slavery on Jone's grand-daddy's Plantation. Jones probably replaced his grips at the first sign of slickness because he was rich. His old grips probably found their ways to some Coca Cola factory worker's sticks.
In Jones day golf was pretty much an elitist sport. The common working man did not get a chance to play.
Cobra ZL 9.5 Stock stiff.Sonartec SS 3.5 14*Sonartec HB-001 21* Cally Diablo Forged 4-6 nippons, 2013 x forged 7-pw pxi 5.5 TM rac 50/6 gw. Fourteen MT-28 54 & 58 S400 Daddy Long Legs 35"TM Lethal
In Jones day golf was pretty much an elitist sport. The common working man did not get a chance to play.
Quite true. After the conclusion of the second world war, that all changed, especially in the States. And then Arnie hit the scene and every factory worker bought a set of sticks and the elite entrenched into expensive private country clubs.
My car has gotten to the point where some of the electronics aren't working properly. This morning I was having trouble with a power shade.
This is one of the big problems with Modern Life. Back when I started to drive, cars produced electricity with generators and there was a coil, carburators, side vent windows, clutches, bias ply tires and windshield washers activated by foot pumps to the left of the brake or clutch pedal. No electronics. Radios were of the valve (tube) variety. If there was an air burst of sufficient magnitude at the proper altitude, the electromagnetic pulse would fry all non-hardened electronic circuitry over a vast area and Modern Life would cease to exist. Except if you still have a 1956 Ford in decent shape and an old portable gasoline generator. Then, with enough firearms and ammunition, you could survive and live well. Damn.
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Wow! But as you say, nobody notices.
AB has never learned that every time he takes me on, he loses big. He brings a knife to a gunfight, or comes unarmed to a battle of wits. Want to join him?
Chambers Bay is my favourite (it is not my location)
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf
you are loosing (losing)
Fitting and grips to matter. Right? (say what???)
Your (you're) wrong
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Wow! But as you say, nobody notices.
AB has never learned that every time he takes me on, he loses big. He brings a knife to a gunfight, or comes unarmed to a battle of wits. Want to join him?
LOL
Oh, Larry. Remarks like that are why you fit the diagnostic criteria for...
for 30 years, I've fought my power fade...
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Originally Posted by JackP
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